LT1 with nitrous
Auto, 95 Z28....................
how exactly do you hook up a dry shot (small)... i heard on a LT1 you shouldnt spray through the maf like everyother car.....so how exactly do i do it?
also how do i hook up a window switch? on the LT1 you should get one so you dont shift while spraying right???
thanks brothers
how exactly do you hook up a dry shot (small)... i heard on a LT1 you shouldnt spray through the maf like everyother car.....so how exactly do i do it?
also how do i hook up a window switch? on the LT1 you should get one so you dont shift while spraying right???
thanks brothers
the LT1 is just like any other engine, so if u are spraying dry go through the maf, if wet go after the maf. The way we've done it in the past is to set the tune dependant on IAT, if u use something like hptuners or anything that lets u customize these tables u can make it so that when the engine air charge is cold (very cold... like nitrousy cold) it will add more fuel. since normal conditions will not hit these temps, when the nitrous goes through the tune will automatically change to the one u want. i think the IAT sensor sits by the air box, so u would have to spray pretty far up. the other option is to tune the maf for it, which is less concrete, but still works well
a window switch has 4 wires (well 5, but one of these doesnt matter for a nitrous application) it has its own pos/neg for power, a tach lead to get the engine speed (depending on the model u get there may be a couple wire loops which, when cut, will tell the window switch how many cyl to read), and a negative out which will power the solenoids indirectly through a relay. PM me if ur serious about doing this and ill send u some schematics I made up.
u dont really need a window switch, i would just advise it, especially for larger shots on auto's, but im not sure what the autos can handle for power so it may or may not be necessary. your kit, if u buy one, will come with i WOT switch. so if ur a stick u wont be spraying through shifts anyways unless u keep the pedal mashed down
a window switch has 4 wires (well 5, but one of these doesnt matter for a nitrous application) it has its own pos/neg for power, a tach lead to get the engine speed (depending on the model u get there may be a couple wire loops which, when cut, will tell the window switch how many cyl to read), and a negative out which will power the solenoids indirectly through a relay. PM me if ur serious about doing this and ill send u some schematics I made up.
u dont really need a window switch, i would just advise it, especially for larger shots on auto's, but im not sure what the autos can handle for power so it may or may not be necessary. your kit, if u buy one, will come with i WOT switch. so if ur a stick u wont be spraying through shifts anyways unless u keep the pedal mashed down
I'm new to nitrous (I think I'm about to put a dry kit on too) but I do know my way around a chevy small block so I think I can answer your question. The '93 z28 used speed density in place of the MAF which they started using in '94 I believe. I'm pretty sure your car has a MAF, and therefore you install the dry kit just like you would on any later model LT1 or LS1.
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likearock91288
Nitrous, Super Chargers, & Turbos
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Aug 13, 2007 09:18 PM




