Time to upgrade The Bullet
Time to upgrade The Bullet
So I'm gonna have about $6600 in January to spend on my car. I need to get a transmission, and I will. What I would like is some ideas on what to do to increase my performance.
The Bullet has 201k miles on her. She was very well maintained, but high on miles. I don't plan on ever selling her, so resale price isn't a concern.
What do you think I should do? SSV6 offered to help me do a total rebuild for $800 for labor, so I pretty much will have about $5000 to spend on parts and installation incidentals.
What are your recommendations? I was thinking of Procharging her, but I'm afraid to do that with the mileage. Any ideas are welcome.
Except for nitrous. I do not want spray. Thanks, guys and gals.
x01660
The Bullet has 201k miles on her. She was very well maintained, but high on miles. I don't plan on ever selling her, so resale price isn't a concern.
What do you think I should do? SSV6 offered to help me do a total rebuild for $800 for labor, so I pretty much will have about $5000 to spend on parts and installation incidentals.
What are your recommendations? I was thinking of Procharging her, but I'm afraid to do that with the mileage. Any ideas are welcome.
Except for nitrous. I do not want spray. Thanks, guys and gals.
x01660
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,310
Get all the boltons out of the way. Going FI without at least full boltons will mean you won't get nearly as much from the FI. Start with at least a full exhaust, longtubes and ORY, electric water pump, UD pulley, fuel pump. I'd also do something about the rear end, 12 bolt if you want to keep it cheap, but 9" would be highly recommended. With that, new rear gears; 4:10 in a 6 spd is a good choice. I'd also go with a mild H/C setup over a FI on a higher mileage car.
Get all the boltons out of the way. Going FI without at least full boltons will mean you won't get nearly as much from the FI. Start with at least a full exhaust, longtubes and ORY, electric water pump, UD pulley, fuel pump. I'd also do something about the rear end, 12 bolt if you want to keep it cheap, but 9" would be highly recommended. With that, new rear gears; 4:10 in a 6 spd is a good choice. I'd also go with a mild H/C setup over a FI on a higher mileage car.
x01660
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,310
When you do your new transmission, get yourself a lightweight aluminum flywheel. Monster clutches offers you the choice of steel or aluminum and i've heard a lot of good things about them.
As a touring car I'd probably still prefer a H/C car to a FI one; less weight and less power on the lower end. Not sure what it would take for a LT1 to get 420whp, but for an LS1; full boltons, ls6 mani and a good cam, such as a TR228 (closer to 410rwhp). With that kind of power, definately take care of the rear end. If stock LS1's are shattering them, you can imagine what an extra 100hp might do.
I can't answer anything about the 383, sorry, I have no experience there. But I am pretty sure Craby has a 383, might be worth asking him
As a touring car I'd probably still prefer a H/C car to a FI one; less weight and less power on the lower end. Not sure what it would take for a LT1 to get 420whp, but for an LS1; full boltons, ls6 mani and a good cam, such as a TR228 (closer to 410rwhp). With that kind of power, definately take care of the rear end. If stock LS1's are shattering them, you can imagine what an extra 100hp might do.
I can't answer anything about the 383, sorry, I have no experience there. But I am pretty sure Craby has a 383, might be worth asking him
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