Enginuity peopleee!

 

I finally got the car running right a couple of weeks ago. I ended up replacing the time chain and gears, not because there was a problem necessarily, but since i was already in that deep I figured why not. Now that I had the old gear and the old optispark I tried test fitting the spline into the gear and found that it could be installed in almost any position with very little effort, but installing it in the right groove offered no resistance at all. So my takeaway from this that I would like to share with everyone is that the proper alignment is critical and even though it will go together in any position with relative ease there is a noticeable difference when you hit the right groove.
Now that the car is running right a new problem has surfaced. It's hard to start when it warms up. I bought a new battery and had the starter rebuilt so I think I can rule those out. Could a bad ignition control module cause this sort of problem?

 

icm or coil, is it turning over normal but not starting or is it turning over slower when its warm.

 

It's turning over and starting normal when it's cold, but when it warms up it's turning over much slower and almost even coming to a complete stop at times. The coil is new so I'm thinking icm.

 

replaced the icm and still having a problem when the engine is warm. It's like the battery is dying. New battery, coil and icm and the problem persists...

 

If you mean the starter is cranking slow when the car is hot, that is a resistance problem. It could be in either of the battery cables or the starter itself.

You can test the cables with a voltage drop test but to test the starter you need to do a draw test while its hot. A starter draw test requires an inductive amp meter. If it where my car I would test the cables and if they are ok then I would replace the starter.

A voltage drop test is done by setting your meter to DC voltage just like you where check the battery for voltatge them place the positive lead on one end of the cable and the negative lead on the other end then crank the car. You should get a reading less than one volt. I would do the test cold (when its work good) and hot (when its acting up) if the issue is the cable you will notice a pretty big difference.

 

I just took the car in for inspection and got a new grocery list of things to fix. I planned to take the starter back in to have it rebuilt since I only recently had the brushes replaced. My high beams don't work so I'm guessing that will take some time and patience to fix so it will pass inspection. One thing at a time...