lt1 vs ls1
#31
02-21-2010 | 04:49 PM
I think I can find where they are, but how do I check their output?
#32
02-21-2010 | 07:59 PM
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I like the LT1 because it is old. I think it was designed in 1950 or something. Although the LS1 aluminum block is lighter, it was originaly designed by Mercruiser in like 1989 or something for the LT5 ZR1. The ZR1 had double overhead cams and heads with four valves, two injectors per cylinder. The LS series shares the same aluminum block design so it is pretty old too. Not that it is a bad design or anything. And GM has always been cheap.
LT5 was a completely different engine that any LS series engine. the LT1 didn't arrive on the scene until 1992 in corvettes. yes, 350's were developed in what? the 60's? but those are still different than an LT1. not sure where the hell you got your information.
#33
02-21-2010 | 09:08 PM
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Joined: Mar 2009
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from shbox
ECT Temperature vs. Resistance Values
∫C ∫F Ohms
100 212 177
90 194 241
80 176 332
70 158 467
60 140 667
50 122 973
45 113 1188
40 104 1459
35 95 1802
30 86 2238
25 77 2796
20 68 3520
15 59 4450
10 50 5670
5 41 7280
0 32 9420
-5 23 12300
-10 14 16180
-15 5 21450
-20 -4 28680
-30 -22 52700
-40 -40 100700
Use a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) set to ohms to measure resistance. Note: Use a high impedance meter (at least 10 megohm) when dealing with the PCM. Most modern DVMs will do, but your old analog meter can damage the PCM. It is also a good idea to get a " reference" from the meter you are working with. With the DVM on the ohms scale, touch the two meter leads together and note the ohm reading. It may not always be perfectly zero, but may be within a tenth or two. Now when you take an ohm reading, you will know what the meter will show when there is really no resistance.
The sensor in the head has only one terminal. This sensor is for the temperature indicator on the dashboard. Place one test lead on the sensor terminal and the other on a known good ground. Compare the reading to the table. If your car is cold from sitting overnight, the reading should be close to ambient temperature.
The sensor in the water pump has two terminals. This sensor is for the temperature input to the PCM. Place a test lead on each of the sensor terminals to take the reading. (When reading resistance, it does not matter which lead goes to which terminal)
If the sensor seems to be ok, you may also need to test at the harness connector for proper lead conditions. Use your test meter set on the dc voltage scale to do this. You will need the key in the RUN position, but don't have to start the car.
For the one lead connector at the head, place the red test lead on the connector terminal and the black test lead to a known good ground. With the key ON, you should read battery voltage (+12vdc or close to it). You can also ground the lead and see if the gauge in the car deflects to full hot.
If you get no voltage, switch the meter to ohms to see if the lead is grounded.
No voltage or no ground mean that the lead is open.
If the gauge is at full hot all the tme, the lead is grounded back toward the gauge. It could be possible for the lead to be pinched and grounded toward the gauge and broken and open back toward the sensor (like in the case of the wire getting caught somewhere during some major engine work). Physically tracing the wire from the sensor into the harness should locate the problem.
The two lead connector at the water pump has a black (ground) lead and a PCM +5vdc power lead (probably yellow). Place the black meter test lead to black connector lead and the red meter test lead to the other connector lead (yellow on my 1995). You should read +5vdc because this is monitoring voltage being supplied from the PCM.
If you get no reading:
Test the yellow lead by placing the DVM red lead on it and the DVM black lead to ground. A +5vdc reading will indicate the lead is ok.
If you get no voltage, switch the meter to ohms to see if the lead is grounded.
No voltage or no ground mean that the lead is open.
You can test the black connector lead by using the ohms scale on the DVM. Place the DVM black lead to ground. Place the DVM red lead to the black lead of the connector. If the lead is ok, you will get an ohm reading close to zero. If you get no reading or a very high one, the lead is open or partially open.
OBD-I DTCs 14 and 15 or OBD-II DTCs P0117 and P0118 are typically associated with problems the PCM sees with the sensors or circuits.
Footnote: If you ever have to test the IAT, it operates the same as the two lead coolant sensor. The same temp vs. resistance table above is applicable to the IAT, as well as the +5vdc lead and ground wire at the harness connector.
ECT Temperature vs. Resistance Values
∫C ∫F Ohms
100 212 177
90 194 241
80 176 332
70 158 467
60 140 667
50 122 973
45 113 1188
40 104 1459
35 95 1802
30 86 2238
25 77 2796
20 68 3520
15 59 4450
10 50 5670
5 41 7280
0 32 9420
-5 23 12300
-10 14 16180
-15 5 21450
-20 -4 28680
-30 -22 52700
-40 -40 100700
Use a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) set to ohms to measure resistance. Note: Use a high impedance meter (at least 10 megohm) when dealing with the PCM. Most modern DVMs will do, but your old analog meter can damage the PCM. It is also a good idea to get a " reference" from the meter you are working with. With the DVM on the ohms scale, touch the two meter leads together and note the ohm reading. It may not always be perfectly zero, but may be within a tenth or two. Now when you take an ohm reading, you will know what the meter will show when there is really no resistance.
The sensor in the head has only one terminal. This sensor is for the temperature indicator on the dashboard. Place one test lead on the sensor terminal and the other on a known good ground. Compare the reading to the table. If your car is cold from sitting overnight, the reading should be close to ambient temperature.
The sensor in the water pump has two terminals. This sensor is for the temperature input to the PCM. Place a test lead on each of the sensor terminals to take the reading. (When reading resistance, it does not matter which lead goes to which terminal)
If the sensor seems to be ok, you may also need to test at the harness connector for proper lead conditions. Use your test meter set on the dc voltage scale to do this. You will need the key in the RUN position, but don't have to start the car.
For the one lead connector at the head, place the red test lead on the connector terminal and the black test lead to a known good ground. With the key ON, you should read battery voltage (+12vdc or close to it). You can also ground the lead and see if the gauge in the car deflects to full hot.
If you get no voltage, switch the meter to ohms to see if the lead is grounded.
No voltage or no ground mean that the lead is open.
If the gauge is at full hot all the tme, the lead is grounded back toward the gauge. It could be possible for the lead to be pinched and grounded toward the gauge and broken and open back toward the sensor (like in the case of the wire getting caught somewhere during some major engine work). Physically tracing the wire from the sensor into the harness should locate the problem.
The two lead connector at the water pump has a black (ground) lead and a PCM +5vdc power lead (probably yellow). Place the black meter test lead to black connector lead and the red meter test lead to the other connector lead (yellow on my 1995). You should read +5vdc because this is monitoring voltage being supplied from the PCM.
If you get no reading:
Test the yellow lead by placing the DVM red lead on it and the DVM black lead to ground. A +5vdc reading will indicate the lead is ok.
If you get no voltage, switch the meter to ohms to see if the lead is grounded.
No voltage or no ground mean that the lead is open.
You can test the black connector lead by using the ohms scale on the DVM. Place the DVM black lead to ground. Place the DVM red lead to the black lead of the connector. If the lead is ok, you will get an ohm reading close to zero. If you get no reading or a very high one, the lead is open or partially open.
OBD-I DTCs 14 and 15 or OBD-II DTCs P0117 and P0118 are typically associated with problems the PCM sees with the sensors or circuits.
Footnote: If you ever have to test the IAT, it operates the same as the two lead coolant sensor. The same temp vs. resistance table above is applicable to the IAT, as well as the +5vdc lead and ground wire at the harness connector.
#34
02-21-2010 | 09:16 PM
2nd Gear member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 325
From: Canada
Holy ****.. I can't read all that haha.
I believe the dynoed numbers that are most agreed upon are the LT1 is around 280-290.. and the LS1 is around 325-330. Both numbers are from stock cars on dynoes.
I have the LS1, I have to agree, the engine just doesn't sound as bad ***.. but it really goes. I've only raced 1 other LT1 and I walked it pretty good.. but every race is different.
I believe the dynoed numbers that are most agreed upon are the LT1 is around 280-290.. and the LS1 is around 325-330. Both numbers are from stock cars on dynoes.
I have the LS1, I have to agree, the engine just doesn't sound as bad ***.. but it really goes. I've only raced 1 other LT1 and I walked it pretty good.. but every race is different.
#35
02-21-2010 | 10:31 PM
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 61
LT1 vs LS1
THe first LT1's 1970 Chevrolet Nickey Z-28 Coupe and SS Nova
LT1 350/360 HP these engines were produced by the Nickey perfomance and Don Yenko/COPO engine performance. these engines were all cast iron and had the rear distributor mount (old shool) the New design LT1 was introduced in 1992 in the corvette thne in 1993 in the Trans am and Camaro's and ended in 97/98 due to some ppl not sure of the LS series To mention my uncle told me while he worked in canada in the Ontario GM plant there were special orders of the LT series and LS series in 97/98 so those years you can find the LS1 in a 97 and the LT1/LT4 in the 98 camaro's and trans AMs. then to go about the the Yenko products they produces some of the most known performance packages from 1967-1982 they had high hp small block and big blocks keeping them stock bore like the 350 sb and the 427 bc chevy they packages were available on Chevelles Novas Camaros and some Impalas these were special orders then in 1999-02 GM decided to give an option of high hp packages of the LS 5.7L, 6.0L, and the 7.0L's (2002) From GMMG known as the ZL1 packages for the LS series ranging from 400hp to 800hp with modified heads,cam, intaked, exhaust, Hurts and B&M shift kits clutches and computer chips and gears ans special z rated tirers for the LT series the high hp was 400hp as a special package deal with heads cam and computer chip for the law inforcement in 96 and 97
Look at these Emblems notice a simularity old new ( I own a 69 COPO Chevelle) 427/435hp
LT1 350/360 HP these engines were produced by the Nickey perfomance and Don Yenko/COPO engine performance. these engines were all cast iron and had the rear distributor mount (old shool) the New design LT1 was introduced in 1992 in the corvette thne in 1993 in the Trans am and Camaro's and ended in 97/98 due to some ppl not sure of the LS series To mention my uncle told me while he worked in canada in the Ontario GM plant there were special orders of the LT series and LS series in 97/98 so those years you can find the LS1 in a 97 and the LT1/LT4 in the 98 camaro's and trans AMs. then to go about the the Yenko products they produces some of the most known performance packages from 1967-1982 they had high hp small block and big blocks keeping them stock bore like the 350 sb and the 427 bc chevy they packages were available on Chevelles Novas Camaros and some Impalas these were special orders then in 1999-02 GM decided to give an option of high hp packages of the LS 5.7L, 6.0L, and the 7.0L's (2002) From GMMG known as the ZL1 packages for the LS series ranging from 400hp to 800hp with modified heads,cam, intaked, exhaust, Hurts and B&M shift kits clutches and computer chips and gears ans special z rated tirers for the LT series the high hp was 400hp as a special package deal with heads cam and computer chip for the law inforcement in 96 and 97
Look at these Emblems notice a simularity old new ( I own a 69 COPO Chevelle) 427/435hp
#36
02-22-2010 | 08:00 AM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,222
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i was wondering when someone would bring up the old school lt1 from the 70's...totally different engine and not the engine we were discussing here. and i don't consider special edition series engines to be part of this discussion either...we were talking your simple stock LT1 and LS1...but lots of good info in there!
