sounded awesome!!next!!!

 

Here, I start and let idle for a few minutes then spun little bursts to three thousand rpm's. I still have a little exhaust leak at the muffler because I did'nt use a "flat" style exhaust clamp. And I wired my fans to come on with ignition, I do not have a check engine light on. I also turned my radio on and you can hear a little click of the power antenna. And I noticed my left channel of my stereo is not functioning properly, it's always something. You see the exhaust is a sealed system. The exhaust actually helps cool the system too. I make my power at 2800rpm's. I just need to learn how to drive it now!http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRCTQMSSnEQ I should not have a problem passing state and federal emissions testing either!

 

I just installed my stock air cleaner assembly, complete with stock charge cooler and replaced a faulty fog light. Reset computer and fired her up! It quieted down a bit in front to. How many miles are you supposed to run the assembly lube before changing oil on a new engine? Or maybe I should ask how long before someone steals my car? Hehehe!

 

Well, I hope it's not too late but I just added my 12 oz. of break-in oil. After filling up the engine to prime it with whatever I had in the garage, 1&1/2 qt Shell, 1/2 quart Mobile, 1 qt Trak-auto, 1 qt Castrol I was right on the tip of my stainless dipstick, which by the way gets hot as hell if you are thinking of swapping. My engine break-in oil poured like sweet honey into the thirsty new engine.

 

I cant believe how cool it sounds with just headers. It sounds awesome. Now you need to show us a daylight view of the car.
I am pulling my engine this weekend and I guess I will be busy.

Nice write up CrraZ

jim

 

Thanks alot Jim. The SLP mid-tube headers are a nice set. Enough clearance to drop the car's suspension and keep the cat in the stock location. Although I may need a new cat because I think I found the inside of it just above my muffler. I am going to get a MONSTER cat. Or maybe get the stock three core like I had long ago. The stock muffler really gets the sound down. I have had some Sheriffs and an undercover drive by my house a couple times. I think I better get my front tag mounted back on the front bumper.

 

O' and when you open up the engine block stand back and let that sucker air out. Iron is very porous and soaks up oil and expands. It was great seeing my block after the machinest had it, nice, clean, and dry. Keep us posted on your progress. In case you have not "pulled" an engine out of a "F" body you may want to unhook and lift the body. It is very hard to get some of the bellhousing bolts and such started while in the vehicle.

 

And if anyone installs a main girdle, do not use the nuts, the studs that come with the kit are good. But the nuts cannot handle seventy-five foot pounds, I used the ARP nuts from a kit. The ARP studs were to short for the windage tray anyways.

 

Also to answer a previous question I had. The reason the cranks front counterweight was drilled and weighted, was not because of a mistake while balancing. They always add a little more which was a sixty gram targeted weight and then remove the excess!

 

Doesn't sound too bad, for a 4th gen!
You're not doing your new engine any favors by starting it, letting it idle, and reving it up though. The first miles driven are critical for proper ring to cylinder break-in. Start the engine up when you're prepared to take the car out on the road right away. You don't want to beat on the engine, but you don't want to baby it either. The cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder walls is to help the rings break in. And the more you can force the rings out against the cylinders, the better they will break in. You achieve that by driving the car, putting the engine under a load, and giving it some backpressure; backing off and letting the engine drag the car down (not exhaust backpressure like you mentioned). Why drive it that way you may ask? Because the rings aren't held against the cylinder walls by their natural spring tension, that's not very much. It's the in-cylinder pressure that gets between the pistons and rings that pushes them out.
After the first 10-20 miles, the assembly lube and other stuff will have been flushed through the system. That would be a good time to change the oil to get rid of the contaminated stuff. And still use dino oil, not synthetic yet until after the break-in period.