It probably is, the DOT3 in there looks pretty vulgar.

 

Clutch slipping and having air in the hydraulic line is three different things. Air in the line is not going to make the "clutch" slip. I'm still trying to make sense of what's happening to your car, it's goofy for sure. It kinda sounds like maybe you're slave cylinder isn't releasing/retracting, and keeping tension on the pressure plate? You might want to try getting under the car and watch the movement while someone else works the pedal.

 

it seems like you have two issues combining to do something that weird. you may be leaking fluid by the cylinders in the slave and or master cylinder and the clutch may be glazed.

 

It just feels as if the threshold for disengaging the clutch is moving about, probably a problem with the lines/cylinder rather than the plate itself. It gets closer to the top of the pedal until it gets to the point where I can no longer fully engage it causing it to constantly slip... like it's in-between fully on and off but at the top of the pedal travel rather than farther down where it should be.

 

Then what you're saying is your clutch itself actually isn't slipping?

 

I guess you could say that. It's not grabbing completely because it won't fully engage.

 

Just tried the mityvac method in the original post. No air bubbles came out but I couldn't help but notice that I wasn't able to hold 10Hg of vacuum for too long. It would slowly decrease to 0 in about ~3 minutes. I'm guessing a bad cylinder... but which one? Testing methods?

 

Attempted 03slowZ06's method (t56 clutch bleeding? - LS1LT1 Forum : LT1, LS1, Camaro, Firebird, Trans Am, Engine Tech Forums) for bleeding at the slave but wasn't successful. I don't understand what he meant by the line at the end of the slave being threaded... it wouldn't disconnect. The rod took a great amount of force to push in. A friend and I desperately resorted to pumping the slave cylinder at the metal rod after abandoning the above procedure. While doing this the fluid in the reservoir would raise when in and fall back to the step when out bring a few small air bubbles to the surface each time. The clutch felt slightly better but still only grabs in the last inch or two.

Any more effective ways for slave and master bleeding?

 

It's more of an inconvenience than major problem, I was planning on replacing the clutch (most likely stock) with a Ram Powergrip sooner or later. Just waiting for more cash so I can do headers and exhaust at the same time.

 

Thinking back, I remember there was a time when the clutch would slip at WOT if I took my foot completely off the pedal BUT if I were to hold the pedal all the way up with my foot behind it the thing wouldn't skip a beat. Mean anything?

I'm probably going to open it all up when I install the Pacesetter LT's in a week or so anyway... I was thinking of getting an LT4 PP and aftermarket disc. Any suggestions? Probably this: http://speed-eng.com/store/mcleod-pe...7-p-10134.html

Would this turn out better than a SPEC Stage 1? The OEM replacement kit + Mcleod disc will turn out to be around the same price ($370 vs $377)