LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

Clutch does what it wants when it wants

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #1  
Catmaigne's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 499
From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Default Clutch does what it wants when it wants

My clutch has been slipping quite a bit lately so I thought it'd be time for a change... but something doesn't seem right.

I bought my car a few months back and was told that it had sat on the previous owner's property for an extended period of time. Everything seemed fine with the clutch/transmission and it never slipped a bit. The revs always matched the speedo, even at WOT in 5/6 gears. However, in the past 2 months or so the clutch pedal went from having about an inch or so of play and no slippage to no play at all and slipping at anything more than a sudden 25% change in throttle. Everyone assured me that it was just a worn plate and none more, but it seemed a bit fishy especially because it apparently deteriorated in such a short period of time. I was thinking it needed a bleed.

On my way back from work earlier today I was stopped at a red light on a very steep hill. Fearful that someone will unwittingly inch up too close, I sat there and tried balancing the clutch w/o throttle. I rarely do so, but when I do balance on hills I typically press my hand on my knee to anchor my heel to the floor under the clutch pedal and tense up my ankle to ensure that if my mind strays my foot stays still so I don't roll forward and stall or backwards into the cars behind me. Oddly, about 30 seconds in the pedal started to feel more tense and the car rolled slowly up the hill so I had to compensate by pressing down farther on the pedal. The pedal kept getting more tense so I had to continue compensating and pressing farther on the pedal until it was an extra 3" down from where it sat when I started balancing about a minute earlier.

Eventually when the light turned green the clutch felt completely different, especially because inch of play returned. When I got over the hill and the road flattened out I tried WOT in 4th and it reacted without any slippage. About a minute after this feeling faded and it went back to being it mushy old self, but I can't help but think that the slope had moved air out of the lines temporarily because the slipping isn't at all consistent.

Do you think it needs a bleed? Anyone tried this? LT1 and LS1 clutch bleeding
 

Last edited by Catmaigne; Jun 17, 2011 at 06:27 PM.
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:27 PM
  #2  
BasicConcepts's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,597
From: Greenville, South Carolina
Technical User
Default

did you have experience with a clutch before this car??? how many miles???
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:27 PM
  #3  
Catmaigne's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 499
From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Default

Yes, a '90 300ZX 2+2.

My favorite ricemobile.
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:29 PM
  #4  
BasicConcepts's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,597
From: Greenville, South Carolina
Technical User
Default

just wondering my buddy burned out a fairly new clutch in his learning process... have you looked into the master or slave cylinders yet??? maybe there leaking???
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #5  
Catmaigne's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 499
From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Default

That's what I thought, but I checked the reservoir and the fluid still sits right at the step.
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:32 PM
  #6  
BasicConcepts's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,597
From: Greenville, South Carolina
Technical User
Default

hmmm... that bleeding procedure should work pretty good that basically what i do for brakes id try that and see if anything changes... when diagnosing something its always best to start cheep
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:35 PM
  #7  
Catmaigne's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 499
From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Default

Yeah, I have a father who thinks like the typical mechanic. They jump to conclusions at warp speed and suggest you start throwing money left and right rather than investigate further.
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #8  
BasicConcepts's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,597
From: Greenville, South Carolina
Technical User
Default

Originally Posted by Catmaigne
Yeah, I have a father who thinks like the typical mechanic. They jump to conclusions at warp speed and suggest you start throwing money left and right rather than investigate further.
the typical mechanic only thinks like that when its not his money...
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 06:59 PM
  #9  
Catmaigne's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 499
From: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Default

Originally Posted by BasicConcepts
the typical mechanic only thinks like that when its not his money...
Whatever will line their pockets.

I went to a service station with a P0400 EGR code for a diagnosis and quote (it's not like I was actually going to pay them for whatever job, just wanted a second opinion). The mechanic tells me I have a bad EGR valve and that it needs to be replaced because it's clogged, quotes me $600. I did a bit of research beforehand so I decided to grill him for the hell of it. I eventually went over to the running car and pressed on the EGR valve's diaphragm causing it to run rough easily by opening it. The problem was ultimately the vacuum solenoid, but I found it funny that his shallow perception of the problem would have cost me $600+ when it was really a $30 snap on fix.
 
Old Jun 17, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #10  
Grandpaswagon's Avatar
2nd Gear member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 711
From: Goldendale, WA
Default

Most times mechs will look at the computer code and cross it in the book. They will then start replacing parts in sequence until the car is fixed. Very few mechs are able to learn how to actually troubleshoot cars anymore. Too many tech schools show them how to hook up the scanner and start replacing parts.

I've seen this same scenario in various electronic maintenance jobs I've had over the years. New kids right out of school know more than "that old guy" and don't want to learn how to actually find and fix the root problem.

Back to your original problem, I would definitely check the clutch cylinders for any signs of seepage and also look at the color of the fluid. If it is the original clutch fluid (quite possible) it will not hurt to flush it out and make sure you have fresh fluid. I'm not positive about the Camaro's, but my dad's car uses Dot3 brake fluid for his clutch. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs water over time. If the fluid is contaminated with water, it can lead to poor clutch performance and over time damage the clutch cylinder and lines.
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:47 PM.