Yes, that is correct Luz. Just bleeding the brakes the conventional "pump & dump" way does not flow the brake fluid through the ABS, it's isolated under normal braking conditions. The ABS system needs to be "activated" with a Tech 1 or 2 scan tool while you're bleeding, otherwise the fluid is going to bypass the ABS. If there's air in the ABS, there will be air in it after you bleed if you don't do it that way. One "shadetree" method is to take the car out after the brakes are bled, on a wet road or gravel road, and stand on the brakes to activate the ABS. Then come back and bleed the brakes again. It's still not as good as using the tech tool, but better than nothing. And if you aren't sure about what the ABS is doing, take a look at the nice clean fluid that you put in your reservoir when you bled the brakes. How come it isn't crystal clear any more? Because when the ABS activated, it back-fed old fluid into the reservoir.

 

Ok, update time, I "bleed" the break system, (hopefully the right way) started with the right front wheel,then left rear, then right rear and half way through the process on the 3rd wheel, I ran out of break fluid. So, when to get some more break fluid, filled it and started the process again, but thus time I started right rear, left front, right front and left rear, and I made sure that the fluid had a good level in between bleading wheels, took it for a drive in a wet road and on a dirt road everything seemed to work fine, brought it back home, lifted the rear end started the car and put it in gear, and I was able to see the rear wheels stop when I stepped on the break, so if I have time today I will take to get it tested for emissions, ill let you guys know how it goes, thanks for the help.

 

When bleeding brakes, you want to start with the farthest away from the master and work to closest. Hope everything works out this time.