97 z engine shuts off at certain temp
#1
97 z engine shuts off at certain temp
from cold i can fire it up, i can also drive it but it will die when i get gets to 160 deg, or if i let it idol in the drive way giving it throttle it will also die at 160 deg. once it dies it wont start back up for a while like a half a day to a day. if i let it idol with no throttle it will get up to opperating temp, i have not tried to drive it after it gets to operating temp for fear i'll have to tow it again and i cant always get it towed. once after it died pulled the icm and cooled it off reinstalled it and still wouldnt fire. the icm is also new. i cant pull any codes my obd 2 keeps telling me no codes, and the check engine light never came on nor does it come on when its idoling. it runs fine and idols very smoothly no strange noises. its got to be electrical im not all that great at chasing those types of problems
#2
from cold i can fire it up, i can also drive it but it will die when i get gets to 160 deg, or if i let it idol in the drive way giving it throttle it will also die at 160 deg. once it dies it wont start back up for a while like a half a day to a day. if i let it idol with no throttle it will get up to opperating temp, i have not tried to drive it after it gets to operating temp for fear i'll have to tow it again and i cant always get it towed. once after it died pulled the icm and cooled it off reinstalled it and still wouldnt fire. the icm is also new. i cant pull any codes my obd 2 keeps telling me no codes, and the check engine light never came on nor does it come on when its idoling. it runs fine and idols very smoothly no strange noises. its got to be electrical im not all that great at chasing those types of problems
let's step back, catch our collective breaths and review what you've said.
According to your posts
when cold, aka "open loop" the car runs fine and drives well
if you let it idle (it's idle, idol is a tv show), then it idles until you hit 160 aka "closed loop" and then dies.
you then state that it has a new icm
you also ask if it could be electrical, probably not but it could be electronic.
since you said that you scanned for codes and got nothing, does that scanner also read data? If so, plug it in and read the O2s and other sensors as the engine warms.
I am assuming that your car runs stellar when cold without any issues?????????
#3
For a quick test, you can unplug the connector on the MAF and force the car to run open loop and determine mixture off of the MAP sensor. That said, the car should go into closed loop before 160deg, but it's worth a shot.
#4
you are chasing your tail young man
let's step back, catch our collective breaths and review what you've said.
According to your posts
when cold, aka "open loop" the car runs fine and drives well
if you let it idle (it's idle, idol is a tv show), then it idles until you hit 160 aka "closed loop" and then dies.
you then state that it has a new icm
you also ask if it could be electrical, probably not but it could be electronic.
since you said that you scanned for codes and got nothing, does that scanner also read data? If so, plug it in and read the O2s and other sensors as the engine warms.
I am assuming that your car runs stellar when cold without any issues?????????
let's step back, catch our collective breaths and review what you've said.
According to your posts
when cold, aka "open loop" the car runs fine and drives well
if you let it idle (it's idle, idol is a tv show), then it idles until you hit 160 aka "closed loop" and then dies.
you then state that it has a new icm
you also ask if it could be electrical, probably not but it could be electronic.
since you said that you scanned for codes and got nothing, does that scanner also read data? If so, plug it in and read the O2s and other sensors as the engine warms.
I am assuming that your car runs stellar when cold without any issues?????????
#5
well it is better that it stops working in your drive way... lol
but acctualy might be easier to find now.
unless the problem just as suddenley disapears.
i;ve seen crank sensor go bad and not work when they get warm then ok again cold.
also might want to get yourself a wiring diagram incase you need to start finding the ground wires.
oh yah ... check all the grounds ... don;t you just hate that when someone tells you it could be a ground!
you guess which one!
but acctualy might be easier to find now.
unless the problem just as suddenley disapears.
i;ve seen crank sensor go bad and not work when they get warm then ok again cold.
also might want to get yourself a wiring diagram incase you need to start finding the ground wires.
oh yah ... check all the grounds ... don;t you just hate that when someone tells you it could be a ground!
you guess which one!
#6
but when you give hint;s it always sounds the same... it;s hard to give a haircut over the internet.
could be alot of things, but we are triing , just don;t get upset and you should learn alot about your car and how it works
could be alot of things, but we are triing , just don;t get upset and you should learn alot about your car and how it works
#8
totally not upset i went into buying this car with the mindset that this is going to happen and im gonna have to work on it, this is the 3rd chevy i have had and at least once a month from the time i was 16 had it all of them jacked up in the drive way. nothing new, just never ran into this
#10
that;s cool , sorry if i was gruf
now with a no start condition ...
you need to find what is missing.
fuel , fire , compression , timing ???
like i said before , at least it's in your drive way
keep posting, next guy with this trouble will find help at least
now with a no start condition ...
you need to find what is missing.
fuel , fire , compression , timing ???
like i said before , at least it's in your drive way
keep posting, next guy with this trouble will find help at least
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