'95 Z28 air pump removed
#1
'95 Z28 air pump removed
MD no longer seems to ck under the hood when checking emissions, so I removed the elec Air Pump from the LT1. Motor is stock except for CAI and Hooker cat-back...
I took the shorter of the air pumps' two hoses, and connected the air pump hose fitting on the intake tube (SLP) to the fitting on the tubing ruinning from the exhaust header (OEM). If the air pump were still present, this would be a bypass of the pump, but i removed the pump and instead of blocking off those two connections, I used a hose and connected them.
I crimp-connected the two wires from the harness to the air pump. Again, basically a bypass...
Should I have just capped/blocked the hose connections the air pump's hoses were connected to, and not connected the air pump wires?
I took the shorter of the air pumps' two hoses, and connected the air pump hose fitting on the intake tube (SLP) to the fitting on the tubing ruinning from the exhaust header (OEM). If the air pump were still present, this would be a bypass of the pump, but i removed the pump and instead of blocking off those two connections, I used a hose and connected them.
I crimp-connected the two wires from the harness to the air pump. Again, basically a bypass...
Should I have just capped/blocked the hose connections the air pump's hoses were connected to, and not connected the air pump wires?
#2
The wires to the pump motor are power and ground. Connecting them together would/should blow the fuse. So no, you don't want to connect those together. When I tried unplugging the pump on my 92 Vette, the check engine light would go on. Did yours?
#3
Tks re wires, will go ck my fuse now. I should have just left them connected?
I know after warm-up/closed-loop, the air pump is supposed to cut off and has a ck valve, so by removing it I was afraid that intake air would enter the AIR/EGR valve pipe assys connected to the exh logs. Wondering if I should block off those pipes and delete all air pump hoses....
#4
The only real reason to want to do away with the air pump is for cosmetic reasons; uncluttering the engine compartment. Then you'd be best to block off the fittings on the engine where the hoses connected to.
#5
you dont need to cap the exhaust side hose but it wouldnt hurt. air intake side should be capped. why are you removing the air pump? do not gain anything,,, well do lose 2 lbs. there really isnt a loss of power due to the emission sytem on the engine side. its the cat that effects performance.
#6
Tks, fellas!
Yup, mostly just cosmetics, tho I think it weighs closer to 5+ lbs...
Sooner or later, I will be addressing fr cover leaks, OPTI cap/clean or replace, timing chain and other leaks, and the AIR pump will be outta the way. Forever.
Will cap the intake side ASAP, tks again. This '95 had the recall done that I can see. I retained the vacuum solenoid and shutoff valve, etc.
Yup, mostly just cosmetics, tho I think it weighs closer to 5+ lbs...
Sooner or later, I will be addressing fr cover leaks, OPTI cap/clean or replace, timing chain and other leaks, and the AIR pump will be outta the way. Forever.
Will cap the intake side ASAP, tks again. This '95 had the recall done that I can see. I retained the vacuum solenoid and shutoff valve, etc.
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