When I had a bad opti, the engine ran like crap, but ran for a while like that until I got around to replacing it. The symptoms you described (good one day, bad next morning and then dying out) are not the classic symptoms of an opti going bad. I think you may have jumped the gun and it's possibly something else, which would also explain why the engine still doesn't run with a new opti. Your SES light is on, what is the error code? To me, what you're describing sounds more like a bad ignition module, or fuel delivery issue (pump went out). Have you checked your fuel pressure? A thorough diagnosis is key, to avoid throwing parts at it and keeping your fingers crossed, as well as draining your wallet. Having said that, 270k miles on an original opti is almost unheard of. Many, including mine, don't make it to 100k, especially the unvented style you and I had. If you still end up replacing the opti again, make sure it's upgraded to be vented, or do the modification yourself. Plenty of info online on how to make the opti vented like the 2nd generation model.

 

Unfortunately I didn't check the codes before having the battery disconnected for a while. I tried checking them now and all I'm getting is the 1 - 2 over and over.
I replaced the ignition module about 3 or 4 years ago as it was bad. Replaced the coil then as well. I replaced the fuel pump around the same time. That's why I
figured it wasn't any of them. I did replace the fuel filter for the first time a few weeks before this started happening when I had to replace the starter. I replaced
one of the oxygen sensors at the time as well. Just replaced the other one while I was doing the Opti and spark plug wires.

I have not checked the fuel pressure yet.

 

did you get a scanner on it yet to see what the ses light was all about, lol, you posted before me

 

Here's what it sounds like when trying to start after putting the new opti on.

http://www.ccservices.biz/93lt1start.mp3

 

wow, recheck your plug wires and make sure they are in the right places going to the right plugs although it sounds like they is all firing wrong. do you still have the old ingnition control module, maybe try and switch back. hate to say it but thats what a jumped timing chain does, also opti intalled wrong, rotor lose and moving.

 

I did pull the plug wire from the coil to the opti to see if I have spark and do. After replacing the coil wire and trying to start the car, on the first crank it backfired like a gunshot. Really loud. Then went back to the above sound when turning over.
Going to check the plug wires sequence again as soon as I get it back up on stands and see if I can find my old ignition control module.

 

Found my old ignition module and tried it. No difference. Going to send my Opti to be rebuilt and tested to the OptiDoc in Ohio. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

I sent my original Opti off to the OptiDoc and had him rebuild it using the original Mitsubishi sensor. I finally had a chance to install the Opti in the car last night and IT STARTED! Was very easy to get it aligned and on.
Still have to put the waterpump, pulley etc back on but it did start and sound normal! So glad. Another person to say stay away from the cheap Opti's on Amazon as you will regret it. I wish I had the $70 back I spent
on the one I bought. Thanks for the help from those who responded. Can't wait to get everything back in place and start driving my car again!

 

Nice, hope she runs good from now on.

 

Still trying to get her back on the road. After I got everything back together, discovered a pin hole leak in my radiator so had to pull and replace it. After I get the new one in both my petcock and my lower transmission coolant line are leaking!
Going to try some plumbers tape on the petcock and see if that will stop it. Can anyone recommend a way to stop the coolant line leak? It is leaking right where it screws into the radiator. Hate to pull the radiator again as I've got it all back
together now. She's running great if I could just get by this fixed.