I just had a 3800 with basically the same symptoms. It had a blown head gasket and water was running from the water jacket hole right into the cylinders, oil was fine, only a slight smoke from the exhaust at start up and we thought it was condensation burning off. When we had the heads test at the machine shop, one of them was cracked. Replaced the heads and head gaskets and everything is good now. Has anyone pressure test the cooling system to see if you are over pressurizing the system or have exhaust gases in the system?

 

Ok i just got my car back home .... garage said it might be the rad cap .... its a motorcraft ford cap ..... it might be the issue although i dont think so .... its back to the garage tomorrow .... they closed the extra coolant bottle connection & still it dint work ... any stuff i could check ??

 

ok got some other possabilaties for you.

If there is a radiator block, or a blockage somewhere it may cause this. seen as though its got a new radiator it cant be that but im curious about the heater delete. I know you have blocked the return and feed, but maybe try joining then together so water flows.

The second is trapped air, again back to the heater pipes, it they have air at the ends it may cause a problem

sometimes head gaskets can leak and not show signs of smoke but the amount of water lost would make it smoke like a biatch

Does the water pump work?

Is the radiator hot at both sides, and both pipes warm?

You may need the stat back in as the car is supost to be at operating temp. DOes the car overheat and use more water with the stat in?

 

with or without the stat no diffrences ...... both rad hoses are warm & solid when hot & waterpump not workin wont spill the water & i could tell easily its the waterpump..!!

 

So it is or isn't the water pump, sorry its not too claer above?? lol

Did you connect the heater block off hoses too?? They can still trap air. These are the only things it could be without been the head gaskets or warped heads

 

I can't thankyou enough to keep up with me ...... =)

I had this issue scince my ls1 rad .... so i replaced it with lt1 rad & still im loosing coolant .... i changed my rad cap & yet ..... i swapped my engine in this period & still i noticed the same issue =s so i deleted the heater hoses (mechanics Idea =s) ... changed the heads Gaskets with open thermostat .... YET I AM LOOSING COOLANT (SOB) & NO APPEARENT LEAKS !!!!!!!!!!!!!! @ dawn today im gonna sleep under the freakin engine =/

 

I figure it aint the waterpump cause normally waterpump squeaks like something is still spinning when u turn off the engine ... + it would be wet or random spilling if it was a waterpump issue !!

 

arrrrggg, this is a real nightmare!!!!!

Does the electric fan work? Have you check the fuse and relay, it needs to draw air through radiator if water gets too hot, also you may need another coolant sensor if it doesnt read correctly, if the system is overheating and over pressurized it will go into the overflow tank, and evaporate off.

You need a 160 stat, cooling temp sensor, fan to come on at lower temp, these all avoid overheating/over pressure and evap in the coolant tank. I know it means buying more stuff but you practically replaced all the other stuff anyway. I have been told the water pumps do fail, so depending on cost get a new one and a gasket, its not too hard to install your self if your a bit mechanical. And make sure you have 50/50 antifreeze/water. Do a flush out too!

 

my pcm is tuned on the 160 stat with fans coming on @ 175 temp ... my coolant level sensor is brand new installed 1 month ago ..... !! .... ill check with the waterpump issue ... but i really 10% doubt it's the issue !! thankyou maudyZ28

 

its ok, just trying to help, and i wanna try and solve the problem.

Really there are NOT other components left other than all pipes being checked. Have you had a pressure test of system, pressurinze to 7psi and it should not decrease. If it dones you know something is defo leaking