supercharge it.

 

I made a list of the items that I have that make my car go 11 sec. flat! I put a price next to the things that you should get especially with what you have in your sig. Everything with a price by it, all adds up to $1485 . Since you have an 01 that means you already have the LS6 intake. Get a good ported TB over at LS1tech for about $125.... that brings the total to a bit over $1600. you would have more than enough for a spray kit and gears and some money for install cost. Then you should be in the 10's for sure.


*Pacesetter LT
*True Dual Xpipe dumped
*Volant CAI
*85mm MAF $180
*Powerbond Pulley $200
*NGK plugs $17
*37# injectors $300
*LS2 timing chain $38
*Hardened Chromoly pushrods
*F.A.S.T 90mm intake
*Nick Willams 90mm Throttle body
*PRC Stage 2.5 Ported LS6 heads with dual spring kit, titanium retainers...etc etc
*TRAK cam 231/234 .644/.598 on a 112 LSA cam from Thunder Racing $350
*Tuning done by Patrick G $400

 

Um your forgeting that the heads will run a couple grand. Have you actually runyour car? what about suspension and tires?

 

Um your forgeting that the heads will run a couple grand. Have you actually runyour car? what about suspension and tires?

Are you addressing the original post or me?

if its me then: My car does 470rwhp and my brand new PRC heads were $1300 with compression to match the cam. I still had to buy the gaskets and pushrods which uped it $250 more. As far as suspension I have shocks, LCA's, panhard rod, SFC's, Torque arm, and just ordered some sway bars.

The guy just wants to hit 10's, if you use spray along with what he has already plus what was recommended he should hit that. Of course heads added to that would be better but on the budget he has it won't be possible. But since there are crap loads of cam only full bolt on cars frequently hitting 11's the spray would take the place in power instead of the heads.

 

Well it looks like I've saved up $5,000 instead of $4,500. With this I'm getting 3200 stall, cooler, NX 150 wet shot, a moser 9" tru track with 3.89's, and a retune for my car. I already had the nitrous kit from my previous v6 camaro, so that saved me some momey. But with the nitrous I'm ordering a window switch an a purge to go on it. The rearend is being installed asI speak andI should have the rest of this done in a week in a half to 2 weeks from now. Then I'll be taking her to the track. This winterI will be doing LCA's, torque arm, heads/cam, panhard rod, sway bar, andbigger better tires, a stronger drive shaft, fuel injectors, & cooler thermastat etc.I also might lower it butI havent descided yet. I'm going to the track either next Friday or in 2 weeks to run. After whichI will post my times any guesses as to what I will run with or without spray?

 

Well, in an m6 that amount of spray might translate to about 125 at the wheels. Just depends could be more could be less. But your car is an A4, and the 9" with the 3.89's is great! ....But stronger rear ends also eat up HP. I don't have one yet, but from what I have seen/heard/read, it's somewhere in the ballpark of 10-15 rwhp. I think you will hit low to mid 11's. After the suspension and tires you may gain a couple of ticks more who knows though? We will see when you post up the results good luck

 

I was kinda asking you because I was confused on your quote and there was no price next to the heads and no mention of tires or suspension. I am well aware of all the bolt on/cam only cars that run 11's, I am one of them

 

If you're serious about running in the 10's you'll need a roll bar for one which has to be 1 3/4" tubing, 9.99 you need a cage which has to be 1 5/8" so personally I would but do a cage and get the over the seat bars so you can still have head room for the back seat. You can have the center bar on the main hoop removeable so you can still use the back seat.

I'd really consider getting an aftermarket rear for your first mod, if not don't plan on make more than a few passes and getting away with it, some relocation brackets on the rear end for the lower control arms, an anti roll bar or atleast an air bag in the right rear, adjustable torque arm. If you plan on running 10's you're talking 120+ mph, so most likely you'll run out of gear using a 4.10 gear, us a 3.73, or you could just run a 28" tire with a 4.10 and you should be ok.

Mickey Thompson drag radials work great with autos, my buddy is running 8.30's in the 1/4 on a 275 60 15. A higher stall converter will help, if you run nitrous you can get away with a lower stall. I ran a 4500 in my car with nitrous, my friend runs a 6000 and he's an all motor guy.

For a street/ strip car like you are saying I'd get around 2500-3000 stall.

If you have front adjustable shocks, turn them the the losest setting or on number 2. I don't know if you have rear shocks but adjustable are nice there too. I run my rear shocks on setting 4 and with the old C/E 3 way adjustable 50/50 worked good for mine.

You want over 100 anti squat, so the car shouldn't squat when you launch it, it should stay level or slightly lift in the rear you can turn this by how you set up the lower control arms and torque arm adjustment. You have to "hit" the tire harder on an auto car. A nitrous rpm window is good to have in case you spin the tires and hit the rev limiter.

Motor wise a good set of heads and some nitrous will put you in the 10's if the chassis works right, I've ran in the 10's as low as 118- 120 mph, and you should 60ft around 1.47-1.50 to run around 10.90's with that mph.. Good luck.

 

Im still working on the mid 10's which I hope to have by next spring. so far this is whatI have,took it out to the track this weekend best on motor was 12.72 at 107. I made two passes on nitrous, didnt know whatI ran the first time and hooked almost perfect. The second one I spun some and had to get out of it for a second andthen got back on itrunning a 12.24 at 115. I thinkI can get it down to about 11.6/11.7 next weekend but we'll see.

 

What was your 60ft? and what tires did you race it on?