Well my LS1 grenaded at Road America this past weekend, there's a hole above the oil level sensor on the passenger side, oil went all over the track -- happened on the long straight before turn 1 going 112 mph. Heard something spraying, then shrapnel getting kicked up, then check gauges light on the dash and the engine shut down. Had to hurry the heck off the track!

I was looking for leads on a 24x tooth reluctor LS2 with low miles (that would be a 2005-2006 year), and now planning an LS3 long block...

App used was TrackAddict on iOS, also on Android -- highly recommended & FREE!
LS1 Grenades at Road America 03-May-2015 - YouTube

Here's the hole:
Hole in oil pan- LS1 Grenades at Road America 03-May-2015 - YouTube

 

woh,,, yep thats a hole alright. bummer.

 

^ Yea, so I am looking for suggestions, drop in an LS2 or build an LS2 short block, or some other idea?

 

234 views and no suggestions. *rolls eyes* What do you all think of this setup?

LS2 block bored and honed with torque plates to 4.021" and decked to 9.0225" deck height.
New DNJ Teflon skirt coated hypereutectic pistons with new 1.2/1.5/2.5mm rings
LS3 rods with new small end bushings and Katech bolts....big ends sized perfectly round
King rod bearings
Speed Pro H style race main bearings
LQ4 24X crank std./std. re balanced for a lighter than stock 6.0 bob weight.
New Avon products Pro Gear LS2 timing chain set
New comp Cam 226/.605"-232/.575" 114 plus 3 deg.
New LS7 lifters, new TTY head bolts, GM MLS gaskets
New LS 2 timing cover with sensor and LS6 oil pump
sides of block re tapped for knock sensor relocation
New valley cover plate gasket and bolts
Howard's 5/16" .080" push rods
Low mileage LS3 heads with new PSI Max life Bee hive springs. New LS3 rocker arms with trunion upgrade.
$4500 bucks
I use my valve covers/ starter/ water pump/ intake manifold/ and rear cover with rear main seal.

Am told this engine will definitely put down 450 rear wheel HP which is roughly 525 flywheel.

 

I would definitely want Forged Pistons for a build like that, Hypereutectic have their place in stock engines, If anything ever comes in contact with them they shatter like tempered glass, Where A Forged piston will take a hit.


You will need a LS3/L99 intake to match the heads.


Sounds like a decent build, I saw trans cooler lines in the pic above? What are you going to do about the 4L60E?

 

I say just do it ,sounds great ,though for few more bucks you could have got a crate engine ls rebuilt ,other guy just do it ask questions as you go a have a good mech ,I would love the ls7 motor they put in the zr1 ,I got to think any camaro guy would love that engine .guy check out karl performance they got some great engines ,I love my 406 ,I got no choise but to for now ,then mabey one day when I win the lotto I can get the ls7 an figure out what to put it in ,but to me that the ultimate ls engine,an your builds 450hp, to the wheels you don't need anymore ,I like tork an 458tlbs is the better # for a street car hp is becoming overated ,guys are likeing tlbs like the old days when hp was not the goal ,the goal now is to have as much tlbs or more then the hp for great 4th miles runs as well as a nice steet rod, the ls7 can be had with 505hp at about $10.000,when you got up to the one with 680hp about 18000 to 22.000 from gm ,a 7.0 ,I almost went with 427 ,7.2L ,whear I live it cost more to have an engine rebuilt unless your a diys ,an would have been about 5000.00 for what you have ,/ were the heads ported that one of the best ways to get an extra 50 hp

 

Thanks for the inputs, here is what I am going with, 555+ HP @ crank, but a lot more money than I planned to spend:

Blue printed New LS3 aluminum block Gen IV King racing chamfered main bearings
King racing narrowed rod bearings
GMPP cam bearing set
Diamond pistons
TMS forged crankshaft with reluctor 3.622"
Thompson Motorsports connecting rods
This short block is rated to 900HP OR 1100HP with main stud upgrade
Gen IV 24x for 01 Camaro road race 3.622" stroke -2cc piston 4.070" bore
TMS CNC ported ls3 long block kit
GM CNC Ported LS3 heads new
Thompson Motorsports custom ground Camshaft .625 .625 232 236 112+4
Thompson Motorsports custom length Chromoly pushrods
Thompson Motorsports 12Pt 8740 Head studs
Melling Select High pressure oil pump
Billet adjustable single roller timing set with IWIS C5R style chain
Thompson Motorsports high RPM lifter set
GM Rocker assembly cores
GM MLS head gaskets
GM lifter trays
Thompson Motorsports Professional assembly and 12 month unlimited mileage warranty
Dual valvespring upgrade including dual springs and titanium retainers

Conversion kit for LS1 cars and trucks converting to a Gen IV LS2 or LS3 block. Kit includes:
LS2/LS3 valley cover and gaskets
LS2/LS3 front cover and gaskets
LS2/LS3 cam position sensor
Cam sensor extension harness
Knock sensor extension harness
LS2/LS3 Timing set
Lifter guide set
1X 3 Bolt cam gear
GM LS3 intake manifold, Throttle body and fuel rails 90mm mechanical Edelbrock throttle body with mechanical bypass.

 

I am opening that question to suggestions! What would you do? It is currently built as a 4L65E with other goodies like the Sonnax valve that enables engine braking in 1 & 2.

 

I know a guy who races his ,an you probley know ,no matter what you put in it things will break ,when your takeing them to the track ,he is allways saying how he breaks something ,an spends thousands each year to race ,one year $20.000 breaking stuff,if you got it to spend ,I guess that fine ,I also know guys who ,spend there whole paycheck an the heck with the morgage payment ,it can be an Addiction,i would ask some guys at the track what they do ,theres a few guys hear who race ,some that go like 2 times a year an some there every week,then those of us that don't race them couse like me I don't need to break anything anytime soon,but I do like to the go there an watch ,an guys ask how come I am not running it an say sounds like a runner you could win some money then throw out bets ,I just laugh ,I say couse I don't want to have to fix it,i just about got it wear I want it for now ,to each there own ,if I had alot of money to spend I would go all out,/ have you checked out karlperformance ,they do circle track raceing an have many different engines an components to choose from ,some putting out 1000hp.from rebuilt to new gm engines,most all there engines come with a 2 year warranty ,but when it comes to raceing .warrantys are no good anymore ,so with mine I perfur to wait the 2 years then think about it ,if you even talk about raceing it can void a warranty

 

Road Racing is very hard on the 3-4 Clutches, The constant cycling of the Clutch (3-2, 2-3, 3-1 etc) Will build ALOT of heat....And eventual 3-4 Clutch Failure.


Using a Stock Input Drum....The best set-up to run is Stock thickness Steels & Stock thickness Clutches. (Stock 4L60E 6 Count), Borg Warner Hi-Energy Or Raybestos GPZ would be the best Friction Material to use in this application.


Most people would question....Why not use more Friction Plates?....Simple, The only way to add more frictions is to run Thinner Frictions & Steels, Thinner Frictions do not take much heat without "Coning", Running Thinner Steels magnifies the problem further.....The Steels are basically the Heat Sinks in the Clutch Pack.


Of coarse...Only running 6 Frictions cuts down on Friction Area & Holding Power, With your new "Bigger" engine....This is also an issue.


The Sonnax Smart Tech Input Drum is only solution on the market for this, You can run 8 full thickness Frictions & 7 full thickness Steels, More info Here... Smart-Tech® Input Housing Kit with Heavy Duty Input Shaft - 77733-12K - Sonnax


This Input Drum is almost $700. And still leaves a couple fatal flaws in the design....The super small 3-4 Apply Piston, No fix for that.
The 2-4 Band has to "Knock-off" & 3-4's apply every 2-3 shift, And vice-versa on a 3-2 downshift.
Unfortunately, This will cause either a (Flare) or (Bind).....On a Good working unit, You wont notice or feel it. But it IS there & "Pecks Away" at the 3-4's slowly.




What I would do in your situation.....4L80E, No doubt about it!
4L80E's shift "straight through"...No releasing & applying clutches to shift.
Friction diameters dwarf those found in 4L60E's.
Have Engine Braking In Manual 3rd, 2nd, & 1st by design.


Dual feeding the Direct Clutches, Higher Ratio boost valve, Some hydraulic upgrades, Set end play, Tailor Plate hole sizes, Block the 2-3 accumulator, Blueprint the Clutch clearances, & a good Converter.....Will take 550-600 ft lbs for years of road racing.


Minor tunnel mods are necessary.
Mod the shifter cable bracket.
Torque arm relocation, Subframe connectors required.
Running some wires from the PCM for the Input Speed Sensor.
4L60E to 4L80E main connector Jumper Harness. Adds length to the harness & moves/repines the wires for a 4L80E, BP Automotive is a good source.
4L80E "Segment Swap" performed on your PCM
2500HD truck-4L80E Flexplate/Spacer/Bolts....Spacer, Bolts & SFI Flexplate for you.
Have the Driveshaft shortened & 32 Spline TH400/4L80E slip yoke installed.