Should i install my new intake or take it to the shop?
Hey, im only 15 so im still learning about cars and loving it. I have a 1987 z28 camaro with a 305. And i have a brand new edelbrock intake mani and im wondering if I will be able to take out my old one and install my new one, Or if i should just take it to the mechanics shop. Now its not like im driving yet so i have time to do the swap. But im just wondering if you think it will be to hard for a beginner mechanic. I learn fast and i will try the project if you guys think i can. The only thing i might be confused about is> Will i need to set the timing again if i replace the intake? And will there be any other secret tricks i would need to know that could be hard for me to do?
I think i can do it, but i will have NO help along the way by a mechanic because my dad has no intrest in cars, It would just everyone on camaroforums.com to help me with it. Witch can get pretty confusing talking over the internet and exsplaing engine parts.
Thanks.
I think i can do it, but i will have NO help along the way by a mechanic because my dad has no intrest in cars, It would just everyone on camaroforums.com to help me with it. Witch can get pretty confusing talking over the internet and exsplaing engine parts.
Thanks.
First off, way to go wanting to do it yourself! I started actually caring about cars when I was 15, after my brother got his '69 Nova (I'm 17 now). Keep up the work, it's a lot of fun!
The intake... well, it's a simple matter of remembering what bolts onto what for the most part, so it's not all that difficult... Take picstures of how everything bolts on, where everything goes, etc. just in case. And make sure you mark all the bolts, put them all in separate marked carns or something so you don't mix them up.
The only thing that might give some trouble is the distributor. Get a black marker and mark where the #1 plug wire terminal is on the distriutor cap. You'll need to know that when you put it back in so you'll keep the #1 plug where it started off. Right after that, take the cap off, and markon the basewhere the rotor is pointing. That way, you should only have to line up the rotor with themark and drop it back in; but keep in mind it rotates counter-clockwise a bit when you pull it out, so if it doesn't go in quite right at first move it around a bit.Now, if worse comes to worst, the oil pump drive will move (that what the slot in the bottom of the distributer is for) but in that case, get the rotor to the mark, get a really long flat head screwdriver, and just turn the oil pump drive to where you needs it to fit properly.
The mark on the distributor you line the rotor up with should keep your timing right. Get everything on and tighten down the distributor, making sure they stay lined up right. It's still a good idea to check it, but that should keep the timing the same as long as you have the #1 plug wire on the terminal you marked.
I know it sounds like a lot but once you do it one time, it's pretty simple. You can pull it off, go for it!
The intake... well, it's a simple matter of remembering what bolts onto what for the most part, so it's not all that difficult... Take picstures of how everything bolts on, where everything goes, etc. just in case. And make sure you mark all the bolts, put them all in separate marked carns or something so you don't mix them up.
The only thing that might give some trouble is the distributor. Get a black marker and mark where the #1 plug wire terminal is on the distriutor cap. You'll need to know that when you put it back in so you'll keep the #1 plug where it started off. Right after that, take the cap off, and markon the basewhere the rotor is pointing. That way, you should only have to line up the rotor with themark and drop it back in; but keep in mind it rotates counter-clockwise a bit when you pull it out, so if it doesn't go in quite right at first move it around a bit.Now, if worse comes to worst, the oil pump drive will move (that what the slot in the bottom of the distributer is for) but in that case, get the rotor to the mark, get a really long flat head screwdriver, and just turn the oil pump drive to where you needs it to fit properly.
The mark on the distributor you line the rotor up with should keep your timing right. Get everything on and tighten down the distributor, making sure they stay lined up right. It's still a good idea to check it, but that should keep the timing the same as long as you have the #1 plug wire on the terminal you marked.
I know it sounds like a lot but once you do it one time, it's pretty simple. You can pull it off, go for it!
Ok, first of all. THANKS. And second, i think i can do the swap but the only tricky part will be the timing,setting the timing is hard isent it?
Nah, the timing isn't hard. I just edited my post, I just realized that the marks on the distributor should keep your timing right fo rthe most part. Still a good idea to check, but it should be close.
Timing it isn't hard, all you do is loosen the distributor hold down enough so you can rotate the distributor. Don't loosen it too much cuz you want it to stay in place once you get it right. Rotate it counter-clockwise to advance the timing, clockwise to retard it. I believe stock timing is 6* BEFORE top dead center, so 6* advanced. If you have a timing light and know how to use it, it should take 5 minutes to do. Once you get it right just tighten the distributer down again and you're good!
Timing it isn't hard, all you do is loosen the distributor hold down enough so you can rotate the distributor. Don't loosen it too much cuz you want it to stay in place once you get it right. Rotate it counter-clockwise to advance the timing, clockwise to retard it. I believe stock timing is 6* BEFORE top dead center, so 6* advanced. If you have a timing light and know how to use it, it should take 5 minutes to do. Once you get it right just tighten the distributer down again and you're good!
Oh, make sure you disconnect the vacuum line that goes to the vacuum advance if it's not an electronic distributor, and plug the vacuum line somehow. The timing will be off if you do it with the vacuum advance hooked up. Also, mark the 6* advance mark on the timing tab with white-out, as well as the mark on the balancer. That way, you just have to line up the marks when you are timing it. I do it myself all the time, checking, adjusting, etc.
Like I said, it's a good idea to check it and make sure, but 90% chance that it will be dead on that it was when you took it out. Just make sure you do all the marks while the distributer is still tight. You don't have to, just a precaution. My timing has always been withing 1* of what it should be after taking it out, so you'll be fine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MS69 YENKO/4-SPEED
67-69 General
3
Feb 19, 2013 11:14 AM
bill2129
93-02 General
34
Dec 12, 2011 03:49 PM



