I can't believe that I'm considering this, but I am. I was looking in my summit catalog and fell in love with a 383. Now I'm trying to see what the easiest way is to get one in. I'm thinking a carburetor (have seen this on drag cars) and a 700r4. I suppose a drive shaft would be in line as well. The 10-bolt should be ok with the automatic as long as I don't get a trans brake. Basically eliminate the computer is what I'm looking at. What do you guys think? Looking at a 6 grand price tag here, roughly.

 

Just as everyone will say, buy a V8 car, then you can easily put a 383 in it :P In the long run it will be cheaper.

 

No I don't think it will. I'll be replacing engine, trans, and getting rid of the computer. The only reason to buy a v8 would be for the v8 and trans already in it. But I need neither.

 

I've been against v8 swaps, but this seems much more realistic. Plus with the 383 I have picked out, it has forged pistons and connecting rods, so it can probably take a 200 shot of the silly gas. But then I need a ford 9".

 

I would figure in St. Helens you would have emission testing but I see only in Portland Metro. Problem is later on you will be required, it's not that far away. Then you have a car you can't register. Or is it going to be a track only car?

Are you talking 6 grand for everything? Since $3k is going for the engine, $2k for tanny, getting fuel system to work, not to mention your speedo is electronic, V8 crossmember, various other pieces that are needed to put a V8 in. You can very easily get past your $6k price tag and still not have a running car.

I still think with a 6 grand price tag you are better off buying a (god forbid) LS1 V8 car. Which will be plenty go fast while you save up for a stroker LSx engine that will drop right in while staying emmission legal.

 

Nope, no emissions, and yes it would be a streetable drag car. If I wanted a pure drag car, I would go for a glide instead of the 700. My uncle works at a wrecking yard in portland, so I can get a lot of parts real cheap.

As for the argument of getting a v8, I've got an absolutely perfect body and paint already. The chances of finding another v8 f-body in this condition is very slim for only 6k. The chances of finding one with a brand new engine with forged components, and a new transmission for 6k are even more un-realistic.

As for the gauges, that is the easy part. Just remove the cluster and fit a piece of sheet-metal with proper holes for a mechanical speedo and tach. Then use piller mounts for oil pressure, water temp, and whatever other guage may be required.

 

I can guarantee you you're going to have many more issues than you're expecting. Trust me on this one. My first bet would be that you would be able to build a much more powerful motor if you worked out all the parts yourself rather than buying a crate engine. Remember that when they dyno a crate engine all it has to do is run itself, it has dyno headers on it and it's running under almost perfect conditions so they can advertise the biggest HP. The motor will not make that much power under the hood since it has to run all your accessories (power steering, alternator, water pump) and it has to push the exhaust back through a full exhaust system. Even Long Tube headers are going to decrease the advertised power because they aren't as perfect as a set of dyno headers. Another issue you're going to run into is clearance between your carb and your cowl. You'll have to get a low profile intake and aircleaner as well as chop the back of the cowl to fit the assembly. Another issue you're going to run into is clearance for the distributor and the cowl. I'm not saying it's not possible, but it's time consuming to get all the details worked out and it's not going to be as cheap as you'd like it.

 

hmm, good points there. meh, I be a dreamin anyways. We all know that I'm determined to be the fastest sixxer on here, and that day will come