I just looked at your pics.
Consider this. A body shop may charge you at least 2 hours labor. What is the shop rates in your area? Here, at a decent shop could be at least 80 per. So there is $160. Then there is paint. A pint of red ( the high solids makes many reds expensive) could cost well over $40 for itself. Then there is clear, reducers, cataliyst and many other materials. Some will charge an atomatic $15-25 for mask for overspray. That repair can be kept small and bellow the body line but dont have a cow if it cost more than $200.

 

It was just a freak thing. I remember pull the tape and plastic off a Camaro that was not even two years old and the masking tape pulled clear off. Go to the autoparts and try some sprsy can clear and see what you think. It may work for you. Just watch how heavy you apply it because it could wrinkle the rest.

 

Well here's what I'm thinking about -

I could pay $200+ freakin dollars next week and have the whole bumper redone to fix a little clear coat problem - problem solved.

I could not do anything - I'd think it would continue to flake and get worse after a while, and would eventually pay $200+ freakin dollars to have the whole bumper redone anyway.

I could try to patch it up myself - I could possibly prevent it from getting worse and continuing to flake, but it could possibly look crappy. Or it could possibly look fine. But as you said, blended areas tend to look bad after while - and I'd eventually pay $200+ freakin dollars to have the whole bumper redone anyway.

This sucks.

 

**** happens. I know I hate it when it happens to me but you cant let it eat you up.

 

So what's a good brand of clear? After i spray it on (and let it dry I assume?), how do I wet sand it to smooth it out (as much as possible at least...) Is there a special kind of sand paper designated for wet sanding, or is it just normal really fine grit that you simply get wet? I don't know a lot about this sort of thing.

 

Your not going to find clear in a spray can that is as good as the real urathane that is on there now. Since the car is in such nice shape I would just bite the bullet and get it fixed right. If you put some junk spray can clear on there, it might cost you more in the long run when you do take it to a shop and get it fixed

 

So by doing it right, you mean taking it to the shop and paying $200+ to have the entire bumper redone as the others have mentioned?

I don't understand how trying to touch it up would cost me more in the long run. If doing it right means stripping off everything on the bumper and starting new, wouldn'tmy touch up of spray clear be stripped off with everything else and be redone too? If I touch it up now, maybe I can make it look a ltitle bit better and protect it from spreading. Then, I can bite the bullet and pay to have it fixed professionally at a more convenient time (I just bought this car, and the 8.25% tax is going to kick my ***).

I'll have to take it by a shop sometime and see what they say. If the clear I could by off a shelf isn't good enough, do you think a shop would be able to touch it up in a similar way as I would, but with better materials and possibly a smoother job, without redoing the entire bumper and do it for considerably less money?

 

A shop could most likely do a real cheap repair. But dont forget that you get what you pay for. I could not imagine any shop just spraying clear over that area. As you sand that area to flatten out the surface it is going to break through the color. Base color is thin. Spray can clear is also thin and I do not think you could get enough on there to sand and rub it smooth.
You could just try to touch it up with clear but dont hope to fill it enough to flatten it. It is not going to make the cost at the shop any greater.

 

I can accept the fact that if I try to touch it up it won't look perfect. If I did something myself right now, I wouldn't be striving for perfection or a 100% fix. I wouldn't cry when I discovered that after doing it I could still see the A outlines. I'd be looking for something to prevent the clear coat from continuing to chip, and seal the base coat off from the elements. The car purchasing process can be a little stressful mentally and financially as I'm sure most of you know. While I'm not struggling to afford the car, I'm also not too keen to go blow $250 or more and get my bumper ripped off and redone for a tiny little bobo - not at this very moment (I haven't even registered the dang thing yet). And since I don't want to do anything right now, I'd just like to do a temporary fix that won't make it perfect, but will make it BETTER hopefully, until I am more comfortable withpaying to getthe professional work done. I know it might seem like a shame to do ghetto work on such a great car - trust me I know this. Bringing this car home was like bringing home a newborn baby - you're nervous as heck about any little abnormal cough or fever and hope like hell you can raise it and take care of it properly. I'm disappointed that I've only had it this long and have already created a problem. It felt like accidentally droppinga newborn on the floor.

How long do you think I have to do something (touch it up) before the base coat goes to complete crap, since it's exposed? I won't be driving it a lot immediately or exposing the area to very much harm.

By the way, don't think I'm not taking your input into consideration. While I intend to make up my own mind, I appreciate the opinions and information - that's why I'm on here.

 

You dont need to justify what your doing. Just do it! I used to throw money around all the time. From the tool trucks to the candy store. But now I am so tight you could not get enough oil in my creavases to stop the squeeks. I would just try to put some clear on top ASAP. I have clear peepling on my car I have been chasing it since I bought it. The rain and moisture gets under it and it peels more.