Newb question on getting started!
Hey guys. wasn't exactly sure where to post this so I'm gonna throw it here. Anyways, Soon I wanna get a project camaro. I'm aimin for a 1st or 2nd gen. to work with. At this point I don't have a real budget in mind. I might just take the project pay check to pay check and learn as I go type deal. SO! My question is what do I need to look for when buyin the car? Do I just want something thats rust free? Do I want somethin that still runs? Or just I just take anything I can find. ANY information would help even about what you gusy prefer and why. I been readin a lot and it feels like I still got a long way to go but as soon as I can I wanna start gettin my hands dirty. Thanks
That all depends on your skill level, and which you would prefer to do more of, body work or mechanical? Do you know how to weld body panels, or how to do the mechanical work? A resto can get costly when you have to start paying someone else to do the work.
The best car to buy is the one that needs the least amount of work that fits into your entire budget. Me, I prefer a car with a solid body that needs mechanical work, as opposed to a rusty hulk with a good running gear. A car that "looks" in good shape body wise, can really surprise you in a bad way with a lot of hidden cancer once the paint is removed. And that can turn into a real money pit real quick. When shopping, look the car over and under very well. Use a weak magnet checking rust-prone spots to see whether or not it was repaired with bondo. Take your time and look over every square inch of the car. Finding one that's rust free can be pretty tough to do. But some rust fixes are easier and less time consuming/costly than others. One mistake a number of guys make is to buy a car to restore, only to find out they got in way over their head once they started digging into it. Don't bury yourself.
The best car to buy is the one that needs the least amount of work that fits into your entire budget. Me, I prefer a car with a solid body that needs mechanical work, as opposed to a rusty hulk with a good running gear. A car that "looks" in good shape body wise, can really surprise you in a bad way with a lot of hidden cancer once the paint is removed. And that can turn into a real money pit real quick. When shopping, look the car over and under very well. Use a weak magnet checking rust-prone spots to see whether or not it was repaired with bondo. Take your time and look over every square inch of the car. Finding one that's rust free can be pretty tough to do. But some rust fixes are easier and less time consuming/costly than others. One mistake a number of guys make is to buy a car to restore, only to find out they got in way over their head once they started digging into it. Don't bury yourself.
Camaro 69, Thanks for the input and that's exactly what I'm afraid of is getting in over my head. My goal is to do as much of the work I can myself to keep the cost of the project down. I have very minimal welding experience so maybe the best option for me would be to really look for a car with minimal rust damage. As far as my experience goes, I have VERY little. This will be the first car I ever work on. I want to do a lot of the mechanical work myself. Do you think setting a budget of 10K is rediculas or is that do-able? BTW, nice rig in your signature. I'd kill for a 69 to work on.
You might be able to find a semi-decent "driver" first gen for that amount. I've come across them from time to time. But if you're looking to eventually wind up with a fully "restored" one (needing some body work, paint, interior replaced, mechanical work), you could easily sink another $10-15k into it. It all depends on what you start with, and how far you want to take the project.
I agree with Camaro69. Much rather have a good body. Mechanical work can be done just about anywhere, body work, a whole different ball game with a completely different set of tools.
When looking around checking the engine, start it and let it warm up to see what kind of oil pressure you have on a "at operating temp" engine. Some engines will have what looks like ok oil pressure if just started but after it warms to operating temp, the oil pressure is really low. Also, look at the tranny fluid and smell it to make sure it is not dark brown and having a burned smell to it.
Also, keep in mind, the cost of the car is the initial investment. You will find that there will be tools that you will need to work on the car that you may not have in the tool box, jacks and jack stands, etc. Those things can add up really quickly as well.
I always go to a used book store or the auto parts store and buy a repair manual for about $25 for the year make and model. Those manuals give pretty good info about "how to" with pictures and tell you the tools you need. That way, you can read about what you are going to do and be prepared before you start instead of getting into the work then finding out you need a special tool or something you do not have when you are covered up in grease and oil. Have fun.
When looking around checking the engine, start it and let it warm up to see what kind of oil pressure you have on a "at operating temp" engine. Some engines will have what looks like ok oil pressure if just started but after it warms to operating temp, the oil pressure is really low. Also, look at the tranny fluid and smell it to make sure it is not dark brown and having a burned smell to it.
Also, keep in mind, the cost of the car is the initial investment. You will find that there will be tools that you will need to work on the car that you may not have in the tool box, jacks and jack stands, etc. Those things can add up really quickly as well.
I always go to a used book store or the auto parts store and buy a repair manual for about $25 for the year make and model. Those manuals give pretty good info about "how to" with pictures and tell you the tools you need. That way, you can read about what you are going to do and be prepared before you start instead of getting into the work then finding out you need a special tool or something you do not have when you are covered up in grease and oil. Have fun.
osduck5, Good point. I'll definitely try to find something with a solid body. I didn't even consider the cost of tools I don't already own. I will definitely take your advice and pickup a repair manual when I finally get a rig to work on. Does anybody know how if it is hard to come across a 1st or 2ng gen with a good body these days?? I'm gonna start looking today. I'm just curious if it's gonna be a long time before I find something good. Thanks for all the good info and input from everyone. I'm learnin a ton and REALLY appreciate everybody's input and opinions!
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