94 camaro fuel problem
I have a 94 camaro with a v6. I put a new fuel pump in it and it still won't start. The book keeps referring to a fuel pump fuse or relay. I dont have a owners manual and I have checked all the fuses in the box under the hood and on the drivers side by the door. What I need to know is there another fuse panel somewhere on the car or where is the fuel pump relay located.
well, i dont think there is another fuse box. but what i can tell you, is get a plastic container. remove the end of your fuel line form teh throttle body/carb or whatever. put the fuel line in the container. turn the car over a little, and if gas is in the container, then you are getting gas. if nothing happens, then look into electrical. if gas is in the container, itcould just be small engine problems like old plugs, or some type of ignition problem like a bad coil.
You are assuming there is a fuel problem. Are you getting a good spark? Does the SES lite come on when you first turn on the ignition and then goes off indicating here is power going to the PCM?
Get a fuel injection pressure gauge, attach it to the test port on the fuel rack. Turn on ignition & try to start engine. If pump works OK, the gauge should show around 40-50 lb. Turn off key & pressure should hold, unless you have a leaky injector, bad regulator or bad pump. If you get the engine to run , the fuel pressure should drop to 30-40 lb indicating the pressure regulator is doing its job.
There is one 15 AMP fuse labeled I/P (ignition & pump) at position #5. It gets power from the ignition switch, feeds power to the pump relay, and the realy passes power to the pump. Make sure it is getting power from he ignition swithch.
When the ignition key is turned on, the computer will activate the pump relay for 2 seconds to prime the pump. If the computer does not see the proper reference pulses indicating that the engine is turning, it will shut down the pump to prevent flooding. This also checks that the pump relay works.
At the right rear of the engine compartment, there is a large wiring harness with a smaller harness branching out of it ( forward lamp harness). The smaller harness goes to a 10 wire connctor (C100) . Coming out of the harness on the firewall side of this connector, is a single wire floating in the breeze and ending in an insulated spade connector (usually grey). This wire is the test point for power to the pump. Use a voltmeter to check if there is power at this point when the ignition is first turned on.
You can also use this test point to feed power directly to the pump. Make up a jumper wire, using a piece of #14 wire and a 15 AMP fuse, make sure to fuse the jumper as you don't want to start a fire in case there is a short. Use the jumper to connect the test point directly to the + side of the battery. This will force the pump to run continuosly and allow you to check the pressure gauge and get a good pressure reading. Do not run the car with the jumper connected for more than a few minutes, because the computer has no control over the pump with this hook up, and will keep pumping fuel with the ignition off.
Pete
Get a fuel injection pressure gauge, attach it to the test port on the fuel rack. Turn on ignition & try to start engine. If pump works OK, the gauge should show around 40-50 lb. Turn off key & pressure should hold, unless you have a leaky injector, bad regulator or bad pump. If you get the engine to run , the fuel pressure should drop to 30-40 lb indicating the pressure regulator is doing its job.
There is one 15 AMP fuse labeled I/P (ignition & pump) at position #5. It gets power from the ignition switch, feeds power to the pump relay, and the realy passes power to the pump. Make sure it is getting power from he ignition swithch.
When the ignition key is turned on, the computer will activate the pump relay for 2 seconds to prime the pump. If the computer does not see the proper reference pulses indicating that the engine is turning, it will shut down the pump to prevent flooding. This also checks that the pump relay works.
At the right rear of the engine compartment, there is a large wiring harness with a smaller harness branching out of it ( forward lamp harness). The smaller harness goes to a 10 wire connctor (C100) . Coming out of the harness on the firewall side of this connector, is a single wire floating in the breeze and ending in an insulated spade connector (usually grey). This wire is the test point for power to the pump. Use a voltmeter to check if there is power at this point when the ignition is first turned on.
You can also use this test point to feed power directly to the pump. Make up a jumper wire, using a piece of #14 wire and a 15 AMP fuse, make sure to fuse the jumper as you don't want to start a fire in case there is a short. Use the jumper to connect the test point directly to the + side of the battery. This will force the pump to run continuosly and allow you to check the pressure gauge and get a good pressure reading. Do not run the car with the jumper connected for more than a few minutes, because the computer has no control over the pump with this hook up, and will keep pumping fuel with the ignition off.
Pete
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