dragstrip times
all right guys im getting my ls1 bored and fully forged heads im getting done cam whats the best i can get so that with my other mods should i be able to break into the 10s oh also getting drs
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Dude you need to read a little more and talk a little less. You don't bore an LS1, and you don't get forged heads, you get forged parts in the rotating assembly. You will need a ton of work to run 10 consistantly. The best advice I can give you is to use the internet and read as many LS1 sites as you can.
i meant fully forged ls1 not heads there getting cut then port and polished i think u just miss understood and what do u think i will run plus there making the pistons bigger why is that bad please explain im getting it done by a guy who builds race cars in puerto rico
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In order to "bore" an LS1 you need to re-sleeve the block. A stock LS1 block can only be overbored MAYBE .005 of an inch. Boring itself does not add any measurable HP, because you are only giving the engine a total of around 5 cubic inches (that's with a .010 overbore on a typical 350 SBC). THe reason you bore is to clean up the cyclinder walls so the rings seal better. If you want to increase displacement you increase the stroke, this will give you some good power gains. Also I question weather or not your "engine builder" knows anything about porting the LS1 heads, particularly if he telling you that boring will give you more power, an inexperianced person will do more harm than good when prting heads. I reccomend just buying a set of aftermarket heads from AFR, you see more power than having some guy port them. I read your other post saying you had a 2500 (?) stall, you should be running a minimum of a 3500 and a 4000 is better. With good aftermarket heads a good sized cam, stall and other bolt ons you should be making around 450 rwhp and run mid to loww 11's on motor and then 10's on a 100 shot. THe rear end will need to be upgraded at some point as well, the stock 10 bolt is weak and is pretty much a ticking time bomb.
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