Ive always been prone to an ol school version of adjusting valves after a cam change or r&r of the heads. My question is, can anyone tell me the proper way of the valve adjustment procedure for my 81 z with a 350 from scratch? The motor is stock with only 27K miles which is original. I am gonna install a new 350/350hp camshaft and lifters, Edelbrock aluminum intake and remove the electronic carb and install an HEI distributor. May give the lil 175HO beast alil more juice. Any help with the valve question would be appreciated.

Thanx

 

some lifters recomend factory settings and some are 1/2 and some even 1/4. the lifters should have the manufactures recomended setting with em.

 

Are you after a static setting, or the engine running method?

 

I'm looking for the initial adjustment. It's been a long time since I've had to do it not to mention I've only done it once to begin with. I had a manual that showed the procedure as far as which cylinder on tdc to which valve to tighten. Last time I did it I got it real close then after it was back in the truck,i gave em all the finishing touch with the engine running.

 

There is a more accurate way for doing a static adjustment. But if you intend on doing a final adjustment with the engine running, then you can go the fast and sloppy way as shown in most repair manuals.
#1 cylinder at TDC, compression stroke:
Intake 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8
Turn the engine over 180 degrees:
Intake 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7
After reaching zero lash with each valve, you need to tighten the nut a little more.
That amount can vary, depending on the lifters used and the amount of travel those lifters have. But 1/4 turn should be fine for getting the engine running. Some repair manuals even say as much as one full turn after zero lash, but that could leave your valves to be not closing.
With the engine running adjustment, you would tighten the nut 1/4-1/2 turn past zero lash. If going 1/2 turn, wait about ten seconds between each 1/4 turn.

 

Thanx for the help.

 

There is a method used by the old skool NASCAR tuners. It is called, EOIC.

This is a lot of valve watching, so you can follow the pattern of Cam'69 valve settings or start turning the crank a few extra times.

Here is the secret to stopping = "AS SOON AS" ... Followed next by:

EO = Exhaust Opens ~ Stop turning "as soon as" you see the exhaust open, you stop. Then set that push rod on the intake with so many turns or 1/2 or 1/4 turns.

IC = Intake Closes ~ Once again, the trick is as soon as you see the intake begin to close - STOP! Then set the ex. push rod with so many turns once again.

You now have 7 more cylinders to finish, or the turn of the crank is 14 more 360°'s to stop at.