Don't write it off just yet. With any kind of luck, your cylinders might check out alright as they are...maybe, could be.

 

It definitely needs to be bored. There are some scores in the cylinders. They're not to bad, but they're there.

 

If you are not satisfied with your engine get it changed......engine is the heart of your car and if it is not working properly you need to replace it......

 

Did you read my entire post??

 

The guy is either a troll or a complete idiot, don't listen to him.

 

I have ran a .060 bore and a .020 under rod and main crank journals with no problems. I know 2 bolt mains will be fine for your project, but a set of splayed 4 bolt main caps could help you in the event you feel froggy.

 

I built a 385 stroker (.040" over instead of the usual .030" over) last year (winter of '09/'10) and put it in the car last May ('10). My machinist had another 3970010 two block that was .030 over but very mildly used so he bored and plate honed it .040", decked the block to 9.010", align honed the mains and put ARP Main Bolts in it. I went with a complete internally balanced Scat Rotating Assembly with their cast 9000 Series Crank, Forged 6" I beam Capscrew Stroker Rods, Forged KB FHR Pistons and Total seal Rings. Had it balanced locally. I went with the Lunati VooDoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam 219/227 dur. @.050", .468/.489 lift, 112 LSA, 1400-5800 RPM range, Comp Cams 1.5 Roller Tip Rockers. Summit Vortec Heads, Performer RPM Vortec Intake, Edelbrock 650 AVS Carb. My SCR is 9.1:1, my DCR is 7.93:1, I run in on 89 octane Sunoco fuel, it'd probably run on 87 octane, just haven't tried it. Had my TH350 rebuilt and bought a 11" Coan Pro Street 26/2800 RPM Torque Converter. I also had my 8.5" 10 bolt rebuilt with 3.42 gears, a Durgrip Posi Unit with all new bearings and seals.

It makes a ton of low end torque and pulls really well to 56/5800 RPM. It's the perfect combo for what I'm going to use my car for.