well i finally found your thread lol. first i bought a shortblock from a guy on ebay great price and a very well build motor and was everything he said we contacted him first and discussed it and did more of a private deal.

if your goin 355 that'll be .030 overbore on the stock block with the stock stroke. the most common way is with the stock crank have the machine shop check it for cracks and any problems and have them do wat they need to on it.

for rods you could go forged not really needed since you dont plan on spraying or boost. so you can hav the machine shop do the same with the rods as they do with the crank.

pistons diamond forged pistons are the ****. there goin in my motor and one day they'll be hit with a 300-350 shot of gas. but the hypo;iufh pistons will stand up to a mild build and there about $300 cheaper. the shortblock i bought had hypo..... pistons and the guy ran 10.50s NA on them.

for rings hell fire and top seal come highly recommended.

i wouldnt buy the pistons from thunderracing i would talk to the machine shop tell them wat rings and pistons you want and then they'll be able to order the exact ones needed (not saying you'd order wrong) it'd be easier.

if you go to a good machine shop when you drop the block off they'll go down a big checklist of things and check all the basics and ask you wat else you want done not sure all the things they ask cause we just said do everything we want the best we can get. idk if im missin anything but if you have any questions feel free to ask im goin through the engine build and machine shop part right now. oh and dont cheap out on things lik rod bolts and especially valvetrain most problems come from valvetrain.

 

Yeah, it did get pushed back pretty far. haha

Don't worry, I'm not gonna cheap out on anything. Especially in the valvetrain. Lloyd recommended some parts which in his words would support a 383 turning 7000 rpms, with a massive cam. I think I'll be safe with my lil' ole 355. haha

Could you point me in the direction of some hypers that are good for 10-11:1 compression ratios? All I can find is 9:1. I don't even know if they're out there. :P

 

keith black has some that is 11.7 compression with 58cc heads. so with the lt1 heads itd be more in the 12.x range because the lt1 combustion chamber is i believe 54cc. it also depends on gasket thickness.

the ones your lookin at may be 9.1 with a 58cc combustion chamber if you ask lloyd he'll help you out with that i know AI told me the exact piston specs and gaskets i need for the compression i want. i forgot you were using lloyd i know he'll tell you the right parts to use.

 

I didn't even think to ask him about that. Good call, man!

 

I am currently rebuilding my 1993 LT1. You will find out that 1993 is a "one of a kind" year for LT1's. There are two roads to choose from. Do the build cheap and mild, or spend a lot of money and not worry every time you put your foot in it. By the time you mag everything, turn the crank, re-size the rods, install new rod bolts, square up the block, bore it, get new pistons and rings and bearings you've already spent $2000.00 and you haven't touched the valvetrain or the top end. Good luck, I've been through what you are about to encounter.

 

i got my bill from the machine shop it was 3400 for everything. that includes parts pistons bearings and rings... the pistons were 830 and the rings were lik 355. so thats alot of the cost

 

i bought my spare block, pistons, rods, and crank(all forged) for $700...i figure around a grand to put the shortblock together and i'll have a pretty cheap shortblock....then i'm looking at 2500-2800 for heads and a cam...not so cheap anymore, lol

 

thats wat i did bought a good priced shortblock for 1400 forged except the pistions figured the machine shop would have very little to do since it had 1k miles on it and it ended up with them doin almost everything. atleast i got a forged rotating assembly outta it if i didnt id of wasted money