3800 Mod Guide
3800 Mod Guide
3.8L Modification Guide
Generally, for most people, one of the first mods you will do is intake/exhaust. There will
be a slight increase you will feel in your butt dyno. Things don't get serious until you do
headers, gears,and stuff like that. Then you'll really feel things starting to move along.
The 3800 Series II actually responds to mods VERY well for a V6 engine. The 3.8 is one of
the powerhouses of the NA V6 world and is one of the most durable as well and the same
design is still used today.
So let's get down to the hairy stuff right?
Intake (5-10 RWHP)
The first place most people begin! The intake from 93-97 needs a lot of improvement. It's
quite restrictive. The best options for you guys is a CAI from SLP or K&N. This will let
your engine breathe much better and give you about 5-8 RWHP.
For us out there with a 98 and up, the factory intake was actually very good. Even so, it
can still be improved on, and a little better improved than the 93-97 intakes all together.
The great thing about the 98+ is that air flow is much more direct. Getting a whisper lid
will give the intake more flow and improve volumetric efficiency due to the taller air box.
MOre air = more power. The downside is that they aren't made anymore and you will have to
buy them used.
To add to the lid, you can get an FTRA (Fast Toys Ram Air) or the SLP scoop. The SLP version
is cheaper, but doesn't perform as well as the FTRA mainly because it is shorter and pulls
warmer air due to this and isn't really in the path of high pressure air.
All in all, both intakes will net you around 5-10 RWHP. You will need to combine the FTRA
and lid to get the most of this mod because the factory box already flows very well. But in
the end it will benefit future mods more than a tube CAI.
Recommendation: Either the SLP or K&N does great for pre-98 guys. A tube is a tube. I would
recommend actually buying an E-Bay intake and getting a K&N cone filter for it. Does just as
well. It may be prone to heat soaking because they ARE metal, but it won't affect it much,
if at all. For 98+, I would recommend the FTRA and Whisper lid because it flows much much
better. You can use the SLP scoop, but as mentioned, it doesn't perform as well as the FTRA.
Catback Exhaust (10-12 RWHP) $200-$1000
Your exhaust is mainly about the grin factor. And FYI, just about any aftermarket exhaust
will produce rasp in the 3800. It's just how it is. The best way to eliminate rasp is to do
a custom true duals set up. Just do your own research and see what sounds best to you.
Recommendation: I personally recommend a true duals set up but it can be tricky. For
aftermarket exhausts, the TSP rumbler produces great results for not very much coin.
Headers & Y-Pipe (15-30 RWHP) $220-$800
Here is where you're really gonna get into modding. Headers will give you that SOTP feel
that you want from mods. There aren't very many options for the 3800... You have OBX (Cheap
chinese knockoffs... Don't buy these.), Pacesetter Mid-Tubes (The most common), Clear Image
Mid-Tubes (Same design as Pacesetter but are better made and stainless steel), and then
Force Fed Fabrications Long tubes.
Most people do Pacesetters which are very cost efficient. And come with their own Y-Pipe. If
you really want to get the most power though, definitely go for FFF Long tubes. On a
heads/cam car, they produced 20 HP more than Pacesetters... UNTUNED! That's a HUGE
difference.
Recommendation: FOr the cost-conscious, Pacesetters are the way to go. They flow well and
produced good results. For the all out performance junkie, nothing is better than FFF Long
Tubes. They will produce the kind of power you want.
Driveshaft
Our V6 cars come with a heavy 2 piece steel driveshaft with a lot of weak points. Just
upgrade to an aluminum driveshaft from a V8 car and all will be well!
Gears
For us V6 guys, we have the luxury that the LSD rear ends from all other 4th gen F-Body's
are a direct fit. If you don't have the Y87 package, you either have 3.08 gears for an auto,
or 3.23 gears for a standard. The Y87 package upgrades to a LSD and the auto gets 3.42 gears
while the T5 stays at 3.23.
Most people just swap out a rear end from another 4th gen and go their merry ways. If you
wanna go all out, 3.73 gears in an auto, and 4.10s in a 5 speed. I would personally stick to
3.42 if you drive on the highway. If you upgrade to higher gears, expect a drop in gas
mileage. Gears will probably be what you feel the most from. It will make a HUGE difference.
Recommendation: I would just recommend a LSD from a V8 car. Try to get one from the 99+
models as it is a Zexel-Torsen and is much more solid than the Auburn unit. 3.42 gears would
be a good deal if you do highway a lot. But if you REALLY want to move, 3.73 in the auto,
and 4.10 in the manual. Expect a loss in gas mileage.
Camshaft $300-$400 (cam only) $500-$1000
A cam needs several supporting mods. There are many ways you can go with camshafts and
you'll have to do a lot of research. The right cam depends on what mods you already have so
the best thing you can do is get some information from the makers of the cam you want. The
power you gain will differ depending on the mods you already have.
I would advise a stronger set of Valve Springs (LS6 Springs do great or you can get some
Comp 130# springs). Retainers, locks, and guides can also be done to improve the strength of
the valvetrain.
Recommendation: The ARH NA Cam is a very good baseline to start from and will make some good
power for you. The GT2 cam from ZZP or the Intense Stg2 will also net you some good power as
well. As I said, just get some info from the companies. The more info you give them, the
more they can help you.
Heads & Intakes
Porting the heads and intakes will help you make the most out of your cam application. This
allows for MUCH more air flow, thus more fuel can be used, and thus more power will be made.
If you have experience, you can slowly port your own heads or you can get a machine shop to
do it. Or if you wanna spend a little more cash, you can order a set from a company like ARH
or Intense.
Recommendation: I don't really have a recommendation for this because I ported my own heads
but you can always ask around. Most companies do sell some excellent heads, but be prepared
to spend some coinage!
Tuning $225-$400
Dyno Tune: This is where you will make the most of your computer. They will tune the most
power for YOUR application. It will be around $400 I do believe.
Mail Order: This is a good option for people with just bolt ons. You wouldn't get much more
out of a dyno tune at that point. PCMforless has done great for me in the past and I'd
definitely recommend it. If you have questions, Alvin will answer ever question to a fine
point. Great place imo.
Hand Tuners: Waste of money. You'd be better off with a mail order tune. Cheaper and
performs better.
Forced Induction
I have no advice for this because it takes a lot of research and understanding of your car.
This is for the performance enthusiast. I won't recommend anything because it's all up to
you.
If anybody has ANYTHING to add then just send me a PM! I know I left a lot of things out so
if you wanna add to it, I'll definitely stick it on here
Generally, for most people, one of the first mods you will do is intake/exhaust. There will
be a slight increase you will feel in your butt dyno. Things don't get serious until you do
headers, gears,and stuff like that. Then you'll really feel things starting to move along.
The 3800 Series II actually responds to mods VERY well for a V6 engine. The 3.8 is one of
the powerhouses of the NA V6 world and is one of the most durable as well and the same
design is still used today.
So let's get down to the hairy stuff right?
Intake (5-10 RWHP)
The first place most people begin! The intake from 93-97 needs a lot of improvement. It's
quite restrictive. The best options for you guys is a CAI from SLP or K&N. This will let
your engine breathe much better and give you about 5-8 RWHP.
For us out there with a 98 and up, the factory intake was actually very good. Even so, it
can still be improved on, and a little better improved than the 93-97 intakes all together.
The great thing about the 98+ is that air flow is much more direct. Getting a whisper lid
will give the intake more flow and improve volumetric efficiency due to the taller air box.
MOre air = more power. The downside is that they aren't made anymore and you will have to
buy them used.
To add to the lid, you can get an FTRA (Fast Toys Ram Air) or the SLP scoop. The SLP version
is cheaper, but doesn't perform as well as the FTRA mainly because it is shorter and pulls
warmer air due to this and isn't really in the path of high pressure air.
All in all, both intakes will net you around 5-10 RWHP. You will need to combine the FTRA
and lid to get the most of this mod because the factory box already flows very well. But in
the end it will benefit future mods more than a tube CAI.
Recommendation: Either the SLP or K&N does great for pre-98 guys. A tube is a tube. I would
recommend actually buying an E-Bay intake and getting a K&N cone filter for it. Does just as
well. It may be prone to heat soaking because they ARE metal, but it won't affect it much,
if at all. For 98+, I would recommend the FTRA and Whisper lid because it flows much much
better. You can use the SLP scoop, but as mentioned, it doesn't perform as well as the FTRA.
Catback Exhaust (10-12 RWHP) $200-$1000
Your exhaust is mainly about the grin factor. And FYI, just about any aftermarket exhaust
will produce rasp in the 3800. It's just how it is. The best way to eliminate rasp is to do
a custom true duals set up. Just do your own research and see what sounds best to you.
Recommendation: I personally recommend a true duals set up but it can be tricky. For
aftermarket exhausts, the TSP rumbler produces great results for not very much coin.
Headers & Y-Pipe (15-30 RWHP) $220-$800
Here is where you're really gonna get into modding. Headers will give you that SOTP feel
that you want from mods. There aren't very many options for the 3800... You have OBX (Cheap
chinese knockoffs... Don't buy these.), Pacesetter Mid-Tubes (The most common), Clear Image
Mid-Tubes (Same design as Pacesetter but are better made and stainless steel), and then
Force Fed Fabrications Long tubes.
Most people do Pacesetters which are very cost efficient. And come with their own Y-Pipe. If
you really want to get the most power though, definitely go for FFF Long tubes. On a
heads/cam car, they produced 20 HP more than Pacesetters... UNTUNED! That's a HUGE
difference.
Recommendation: FOr the cost-conscious, Pacesetters are the way to go. They flow well and
produced good results. For the all out performance junkie, nothing is better than FFF Long
Tubes. They will produce the kind of power you want.
Driveshaft
Our V6 cars come with a heavy 2 piece steel driveshaft with a lot of weak points. Just
upgrade to an aluminum driveshaft from a V8 car and all will be well!
Gears
For us V6 guys, we have the luxury that the LSD rear ends from all other 4th gen F-Body's
are a direct fit. If you don't have the Y87 package, you either have 3.08 gears for an auto,
or 3.23 gears for a standard. The Y87 package upgrades to a LSD and the auto gets 3.42 gears
while the T5 stays at 3.23.
Most people just swap out a rear end from another 4th gen and go their merry ways. If you
wanna go all out, 3.73 gears in an auto, and 4.10s in a 5 speed. I would personally stick to
3.42 if you drive on the highway. If you upgrade to higher gears, expect a drop in gas
mileage. Gears will probably be what you feel the most from. It will make a HUGE difference.
Recommendation: I would just recommend a LSD from a V8 car. Try to get one from the 99+
models as it is a Zexel-Torsen and is much more solid than the Auburn unit. 3.42 gears would
be a good deal if you do highway a lot. But if you REALLY want to move, 3.73 in the auto,
and 4.10 in the manual. Expect a loss in gas mileage.
Camshaft $300-$400 (cam only) $500-$1000
A cam needs several supporting mods. There are many ways you can go with camshafts and
you'll have to do a lot of research. The right cam depends on what mods you already have so
the best thing you can do is get some information from the makers of the cam you want. The
power you gain will differ depending on the mods you already have.
I would advise a stronger set of Valve Springs (LS6 Springs do great or you can get some
Comp 130# springs). Retainers, locks, and guides can also be done to improve the strength of
the valvetrain.
Recommendation: The ARH NA Cam is a very good baseline to start from and will make some good
power for you. The GT2 cam from ZZP or the Intense Stg2 will also net you some good power as
well. As I said, just get some info from the companies. The more info you give them, the
more they can help you.
Heads & Intakes
Porting the heads and intakes will help you make the most out of your cam application. This
allows for MUCH more air flow, thus more fuel can be used, and thus more power will be made.
If you have experience, you can slowly port your own heads or you can get a machine shop to
do it. Or if you wanna spend a little more cash, you can order a set from a company like ARH
or Intense.
Recommendation: I don't really have a recommendation for this because I ported my own heads
but you can always ask around. Most companies do sell some excellent heads, but be prepared
to spend some coinage!
Tuning $225-$400
Dyno Tune: This is where you will make the most of your computer. They will tune the most
power for YOUR application. It will be around $400 I do believe.
Mail Order: This is a good option for people with just bolt ons. You wouldn't get much more
out of a dyno tune at that point. PCMforless has done great for me in the past and I'd
definitely recommend it. If you have questions, Alvin will answer ever question to a fine
point. Great place imo.
Hand Tuners: Waste of money. You'd be better off with a mail order tune. Cheaper and
performs better.
Forced Induction
I have no advice for this because it takes a lot of research and understanding of your car.
This is for the performance enthusiast. I won't recommend anything because it's all up to
you.
If anybody has ANYTHING to add then just send me a PM! I know I left a lot of things out so
if you wanna add to it, I'll definitely stick it on here
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