taking the oil pan OUT!!!!
#1
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ok im in the process of taking the oil pan down to change the oil pump. unfortunately i didnt realize that i may have to remove the transmission (DAMN IT). is there any way i can remove the flywheel and maybe the torque conventor down without removing the ENTIRE DAMN TRANMISSION!
#2
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There is no need for all that work:
To remove the oil pan:
1) Remove engine air intake duct
2) Drain engine oil
3) Disconnect wiring harness from left side of oil pan
4) Remove oil level sensor from oil pan
5)Disconnect exhaust Y pipe from exhaust manifolds & move it out of the way
6) Unclip transmission oil cooler lines from side of oil pan
7) Remove starter motor
8) Remove torque converter bottom cover (only)
9) Remove through bolts from engine mounts
10) Raise engine several inches
11) Unbolt oil pan
12) Remove oil pan, may have to manually rotate crank to get it out.
To remove the oil pan:
1) Remove engine air intake duct
2) Drain engine oil
3) Disconnect wiring harness from left side of oil pan
4) Remove oil level sensor from oil pan
5)Disconnect exhaust Y pipe from exhaust manifolds & move it out of the way
6) Unclip transmission oil cooler lines from side of oil pan
7) Remove starter motor
8) Remove torque converter bottom cover (only)
9) Remove through bolts from engine mounts
10) Raise engine several inches
11) Unbolt oil pan
12) Remove oil pan, may have to manually rotate crank to get it out.
#3
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ok 2 through 6 have been done. havent done 1 and 7 yet. 8 is also done. now the through bolts engine mounts huh and raising the "engine" afew inches sounds just as complex as to removing the transmission. i mean the pan right now is completely loose just that the flywheel is in the way and since the pan is long we cant just simply push it back out. right now i really dont have anything to hold the engine, so i guess thats out, thanks anyway pete.
P.S if i just remove the starter can i wegde it through there without removing the mounts?
P.S if i just remove the starter can i wegde it through there without removing the mounts?
#4
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Don't have to remove the mounts, just remove the single bolt that holds the two halves of the mounts together. The engine has to be raised, you can use a floor jack under the front pulley, in order to drop the pan enough to clear the crank.
#5
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ok we raised the engine but still wasnt enough, i mean we unscrew the bolt but not to much to remove it. still was not enough to remove. i went to a mechanic today just to ask and he said u may as well just remove the mounts and put i piece a plywood where the mounts are then raise the engine from there...damn what im i doing wrong.
#6
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The though bolt has to be completely taken out so that the mount splits. Then jack the front of the engine up till thetop rear of the engine contacts the bodywork. The pan should now drop down to the cross member. It won't come right out, unless you are extremely lucky. You need to wiggle, push, & pull on the oil pan, and at the same time turn the crankshaft so that the counterweightsclear the inside ofthe pan.
#7
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well after the second biggest ordeal with my car it is finally complete. now am going to ver off topic (maybe i should put this on a seperate post). one of the freeze plugs was very corroded and decided to change it, we did (which was a mission cause it was the one near the oil filter) and dran the coolent out completely. now that thats done im trying to put the coolent back, for some reason the temperature sky rocketed but we filled the coolent to the top by the radiator, then i started to pump the coolent by one of the hoses well it was off and more coolent seemed to be going to the block. my question is, is there a faster way to get the coolent into the block faster without overheating it. i do have a 180 themostat and i just bought that like a month and a half ago, should i remove it, when i bought the car 2 years ago if didnt even have one, i guess i see why.
#9
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The coolant won't flow into the block till the t'stat opens. T'stat won't open until hot coolant gets to it, but meanwhile engine gets hot, so run engine around 2500 RPM to force hot water through the t'stat and get it to open faster. Letengine run with the radiator cap off. When the coolant starts to flow, the t'stat has opened. Open the vents to let the air out of system. Coolant level will drop when the t'stat opens as long as the engine is running, at that point add more fluid & top off radiator. Close radiator cap& make sure all air is out and coolant is comings out the air vents. Close vents, let engine cool & check level in radiator again & top off.
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