I can already tell you what the codes in his computer are: EGR Soleniod 1,2,3.

My camaro does the same thing, just doesn't stall out completely. Haven't quite nailed the problem down yet, but I'm assuming that the solenoid(s) are functioning improperly. At some point I'll get around to changing it.

Hope this helps.

 

Ya sell your and buy a brand new 2011 v8 supercharged. Otherwise turbo!!!! Lol. How does the egr cause the engine to stall? Plus what does that system do?

 

EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation. It does what it sounds like. It takes some exhaust gasses and routes them through the intake to be burnt again in the engine. This system is supposed to work only at cruising speeds when the RPMS are high and the load is low. It will lower combustion chamber temps to give more power and better mileage. But when the exhaust gasses are put through the intake at idle it will cause the engine to stall and die. The engine cant handle the EGR being open when the load is high or RPMS low, or both like accelerating or climbing hills. EGR used to be a considered a power robber but the newer systems that take the exhaust gas from the manifolds actually help with the burn and produce better power and better mileage.

Massey

 

So what would cause the egr to stay open during idle? Is there a way to clean it up?

 

In the case of the EGR units we have the soleniods go bad and the pintles get stuck open. If that happens then exhaust gasses are always flowing into the intake. You will notice a rough idle maybe the car will stall when you try to accelerate, very little power under load, but when you are cruising the car runs fine. 96+ cars will throw EGR codes letting you know if it is open when it should not be or not opening when it should 93-95 will just throw an egr fault and let the tech decide what is wrong.

Massey

 

Ok. I know my car has a little bit of a rough idle but it doesn't through a code at all I'll have to check it out this weekend and see if I can see how all the sensors are runing. My car will start to die when i start to take off but it's often but my voltage drops from 16 down to 12. It'll also do that as it idles.

 

12V should not even cause any hesitation. Most of the electronics in your car will operate just fine off 9V any lower than 9 and then you will see things go bad. But if you are making 16V then you are cooking your electronics in the car. 14.8 should be the max voltage you get out of your alternator. Any more and things start to fail from overvolts.

Massey

 

Ya it could be 14.8. Just from looking at the dash volt meter. I'm thinking it could be my battery not holding a charge that great but shouldn't the alternator be keeping the volts at a steady 14.8? Would it just be the alternator slowly starting to seize up?

 

How well does the battery turn the car over? If there is no issue there then you prolly are OK with the battery. If in doubt then take it to your local part store and have them check the battery and alternator for you... Its free and can tell you alot about the health of your car.

Massey

 

What do you mean by the health of my car? Just the electronics? I can hook a volt meter up to in and check it out. Battery would need electrolyte if it's low on fluid but if It is I'll just replace it with a yellow top optra battery.