replacing rear springs
#1
replacing rear springs
Ok so i jacked up my car today to try and pop my rear coil springs back in place. The tops of both of them are not in the mounts. I think i need to do somthing with the brake lines tho cause or else i'll rip them out when i lower the rear axle. Can someone please tell me what i can do. It looks like i have to do somthing with the brake lines im just not sure what i can do. Thanks in advance.
#2
RE: replacing rear springs
Hmm. I've never really paid much attention to the rear spring setup on my car. Tell me, is it an actual coil spring assembly or is it a modified strut system?
And I would go ahead and disconnect any and all brake lines, ABS sensors, and any other connection between body and axle. Disconnect and plug the brake lines, but when intalling the calipers make sure you bleed the air out of each one. If I'm not mistaken, you do not need a scan tool to active the ABS and TCS on non-Z28 models, but if I am wrong, please, someone, correct me.
Regardless if it's a coilspring or modified strut, you will need to fix the seating. Go ahead and replace the bushings, too. I'd highly suggest going to autozone and renting their coilspring compressor (meant for use with a pneumatic impact wrench, assuming you're equipped with one). If you don't have an impact gun, you may need to but some good effort into compressing the spring. Also, please note that when dealing with any type of coil spring or strut system, the compression rates are lethal, so take caution at all times. I'd hate to have a spring shoot out and hurt you or damage your ride.
And I would go ahead and disconnect any and all brake lines, ABS sensors, and any other connection between body and axle. Disconnect and plug the brake lines, but when intalling the calipers make sure you bleed the air out of each one. If I'm not mistaken, you do not need a scan tool to active the ABS and TCS on non-Z28 models, but if I am wrong, please, someone, correct me.
Regardless if it's a coilspring or modified strut, you will need to fix the seating. Go ahead and replace the bushings, too. I'd highly suggest going to autozone and renting their coilspring compressor (meant for use with a pneumatic impact wrench, assuming you're equipped with one). If you don't have an impact gun, you may need to but some good effort into compressing the spring. Also, please note that when dealing with any type of coil spring or strut system, the compression rates are lethal, so take caution at all times. I'd hate to have a spring shoot out and hurt you or damage your ride.
#3
RE: replacing rear springs
I believe itis an actual coil spring assembly on the rear the front isnt. What i heardis i should be able to jack the car up and then lower the rear axle and then disconnext thesway bar and take off theshocks The rear axle should then drop far enough to pushthe springsback in there mounts. I dontbelieve i need a coil springcompressor becauseits not one unit with the shock. Im just not sure how to take the brake lines off or the process of bleedingthem. Im hoping i dont need to buy new springs they should still be good but i wont know till i can get them back in there proper position. All help is greatly appreciated.
#4
RE: replacing rear springs
I understand that it's not a McPherson strut system (the shock-in-spring type assembly), but unless you can relieve the vehicle of it's entire unsprung weight, you'll need one for a safe and effective desassembly. Honestly, I wouldn't trust the springs if they've traveled out that much. Look around and I would highly recommend replacing the mount bushings. The procedure for bleeding the brakes is simple, and made even easier if you've got a friend handy. After you reconnect the brake line, attach a clear hose (vacuum type will work just fine) to your bleeder screw and have your friend pump the brakes ten to fifteen times (engine off). Once he has pumped the brakes, crack open the bleeder valve (still with the line on it) and collect the used brake fluid into a glass bottle or jar. Repeat this until you see NO bubbles within the clear line. Repeat the same process for the other caliper, but do only one at a time. Also, monitor your DOT3 fluid level. Never let it dip too low, or air will be sucked in through the master cylinder, making for a long process of bleeding. Always use fresh fluid, too. Never reuse the nasty stuff.
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