This is my very first post on how to do something. This is a pretty good procedure on how to replace the starter switch on a Camaro. Mine is an 2002 V6 with auto tranny.


The start switch is on top of the steering column about a foot back from the steering wheel itself. It's not easy to get to, but with this procedure, it can be pretty easy to change.


To start with, I am a big person. 6' 3". Getting under that dash is extremely difficult. The bigger the person, the harder this job is.


I don't have a camera or a way to post photos. I am also not aware of any kind of procedure on the net on how to change this switch. I spent days searching. If you like this procedure, print it, and keep it in your notebook.


Procedure:


1) Remove all under dash plastic covers on driver's side
2) Remove the connectors on the (2) brake pedal switches. The brake light switch and the cruise release switch.
3) unscrew both these plastic switches "counting the turns". Write the number on the side of the switch. When re-installing, this is very helpful to get the switch right back where it was.
4) go to the bottom of the steering column. There are 3 firewall screws. Remove them.
5) Remove the V-shaped bracket under the steering column towards the front.
6) Remove the (2) 13mm screws that hold up the steering column and let it drop to the seat
7) On the left side of the column is the bright/dim switch. Remove the electrical connector
8) On top of the column is the start switch. There are (2) electrical connectors on the right side. Remove them
9) The first switch to remove is the bright/dim. At the very rear of these two switches is the first screw. Remove it.
10) In the front is the second screw. Remove it. The bright/dim switch will now fall into your hand. There is a rod that pokes into the front to make it work. The rod will not fall away, but you will slide it back in the hole when re-installing this switch.


Note1: The "back screw" that holds on the bright/dim switch is a self-tapping screw that goes into the bracket for the start switch. The front screw is a normal hex head that screws into the steering column. You can now remove the bright/dim switch.


Note 2: The "NEW" ignition switch can now be looked at. Inside the black portion is where the cable goes. There is a ball inside sticking down. This ball is activated when the switch is key is turned on so you can get the car out of park. Also, you will see a "blue plug" sticking up for no apparent reason. This blue plug holds the sliding mechanism still for easier re-assemble.


11) Remove the Phillips head screw that is left holding the start switch in place. The start switch can now be dropped down for much easier changing. There is a rod from the key back to this switch. Simply lift up on the switch and the rod falls out. The rod will not fall on the floor, so don't worry. It says right in place


12) The best way I found to remove the cable is to remove the two small phillips head screws holding the black part onto the main switch. Then, you can easily see a clip on the bottom of the black part. Similar type of clip that holds on the electrical connectors. Push this clip down and the cable pops right out


13) To install the cable into the "new" switch, I found it was very easy by first removing this same black part. Slide the cable in and it clicks in place. When I tried to slide the cable in with the black part still connected, it would not click in place. The ball was in the way.


14) After inserting the cable into the black portion of the switch, re-attach to the main switch.


15) Install the ignition switch using the Phillips head screw in the center to the steering column and the front hex head screw to the steering column. Don't forget to drop the switch down over the key start rod. It's very easy to do and the rod will not move.


16) What I did (before tightening the screws) was to turn the key slightly and see if the switch wanted to move. Then, I knew everything was aligned OK. Rod back in the hole properly.


17) Tighten the two screws at the same time. Or, back and forth. I set my switch slotted adjustment to the center. The Phillips head screw will remain, so you can tighten it down tight.


18) The front machine screw has to be removed to re-attach the bright/ dim switch. Remember, the back screw holding the bright/dim switch in place is a self-tapping screw and screws into the back of the start switch. Once aligned and adjusted, tight all the screws. You now have both switches back on the column and tight.


19) Now reach to that blue plug and flip it out. If you forget, the key will not move or turn. Once that blue plug is removed, everything should be fine.


That is about it. Add everything back like you took it out. In my case, being a rookie on this job, my car started right up. I did check the brake lights and found them fine. I did put a meter across the cruise release switch and pushed the brake pedal slightly to make sure this was working OK.


That's it!!

 

Sounds about right! Way to go. The 3 bolts at the firewall are optional as the column will still lower down with them attached but it will have to be pushed down. This slightly bends the sheetmetal at the end of the column but will not hurt anything, it gets bent back once you lift the column back up to the dash. Also sometimes it is easier to also remove (if you can) the cradle that holds the column to the dash. This makes it easier to get your hands into the switch area with out laying on your back. I have found some of these columns have this mounted with 4 13mm bolts and others are welded. If it is welded, sorry you are stuck.

Massey

 

thanks, i will link to this in the how to and faq sticky. photo bucket works ok for pictures. open free account, download pictures, copy IMG code to post and picture shows. got my daughter to show me how the first time, lol, several years ago.