by you claiming, i mean youre quoting times...
im just saying, even with a motor that responds better to mods, 1.5 seconds NA is hard as crap to do. gears, stall, cam, and full boltons got JD 1 second over stockand hes pulling 1.5 sec short times. the firebird must be real light is all im saying. because with mods as listed hes going 1.5 seconds not faster than stock, but faster than a bolton car. just seems off to me

 

Maybe he's running more nitrous? His engine might be built up a little more. I dunno, I'd like to see a vid or a picture. I'm getting my new rear end this week.

This calls for new questions. I'm looking a gear sets from summit. What will the posi rear end out of the automatic bird I'm looking at be? 10 bolt 7.5 inch, 8 inch, ???? There's a lot of gears to chose from. Also, since it's summer and I'm not doing any commuting, the new rear end will stay in there for a few months. How to I fix my speedo?

We will find out in a month or so what my six can run with bolt ons, minus the cam. When I get that far, I'm going to do a lot of work to the heads, except use heads off a later model 3.8. Apparently mine will crack when they get ported and polished. A 12.9 will be my goal, I think I can get there, we'll see. This week: clutch, 1 piece drive line, posi rear end w/ 373 gears. Next week, the world.

 

Oh, and I learned something, more about nitrous. Neat stuff.

Wet kit vs dry kit. A dry kit injects the nitrous oxide before the mass air flow sensor. When the sensor detects that the air is more dense, it richens the fuel mixture. As stig said, new, larger fuel injectors will be needed to componsate for this. A high pressure fule pump is good backup to have, required or not. A failure in the fuel system will, well, say bye bye to your engine. Now, a wet kit in my case will have nozzel installed into the throttle body.This form of nitrous has uses two things, not one like the dry kit: raw gas from the schrader valve; the other is the n2o. This system is much more efficient, and power gains will be much higher. Stock injectors can be kept, but a high output fuel pump is, again, a nice thing to have. Whether it is needed or not, its a good safety feature.

That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.

Guess I'm gonna try to find a wet kit.

The plan:

 

To correct you speedo after you put in new gears, you will need someone to tune it. If you know someone with HPTuners, they could do it.

 

music man theres a old saying man that goes you know its a Fbody when you can snap the rear on stock power.... simpley if your gonna be launching on juice out of the hole which is the only way your gonna get consistant 12( you may tink one or two out other wise) then your gonna bust i youll need to upgrade your suspention and likey you rear itself the ford 9 inch is the drag racing standard ....as sad as it is to say that

 

i dont think he has enough power to break even a 12 bolt i dont think there is any reason to get a 9inch hes only going to have about 325+ and a 10 bolt should handle that.

 

I figured out the way to launch on gas. I found a little module that does some nifty things. 1st, it has a window switch, and will kill the nitrous at a certain rpm so you don't kill the engine. Second, it can andjust the nitrous, from 0% to 100% on a timer. So I could launch on 50% gas, then in 1 or 2 seconds, it can kick it up to 100%.

Plus when I do this, I'm going to do a few safety things. 1st, the module I just talked about. Second, I'm going to get a tiny 1 gallon or smaller fuel cell and put racing fuel in it, and an electric fuel pump. This gas will be used instead of the gas from my fuel rail, and should help prevent pre-ignition, and hopefully keep my engine safe. A high octane fuel will not detonate as quickly as regular. I think I can get into the 12's. (keep in mind that all this is a long ways away, nitrous will be the very last thing to go on)

Oh, and my uncle reserved a rear end for me, as well as a one piece driveshaft, the calipers, rotors, etc. All for about $200, not bad eh? I'm going to put in a factory replacement clutch, just becuase I want to protect the rear end in the future. I'd rather slip the clutch than bust the rear end. Chassis stuff should be done by the end of next week. And because this car will only be for drag racing for a few months, I'm going to go ahead and install 390 gears, I'm not worried about how streetable it is.

 

tell that to the LS1 guys who are blowin out there rear ends just cus the put on slicks.....slicks is a whole nother world the strain put on your drivetrain bya slicks is much more than you could ever even attempt to preform on street tires

 

JD's car is in a totally different bracket. It takes a lot more to go from 13.3 to 12.3 than it does from 15.7 to 14.7. As you get quicker, it takes more and more. As far as I know, he has dont little to no weight reduction.

 

I'm going to buy summit's best set of gears, the strongest ones they have. Also, I don't plan on running full out slicks, but drag radials that won't grab too tight, and also a few nitrous tricks like I talked about earlier. I won't need tires until I get into the gas. I don't think that's even going to happen this season, maybe.... not sure. I spent all day polishing the chrome on the motorcycle I was going to sell, stood back and took a look, and now neithor dad nor I can muster the will to sell it, lol, oh well.