Monsoon wiring bypass
#11
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Yea both rear (left and right) hatch speakers sound like that. right now they are the only ones I have connected. I think I will run wire directly from the speakers to see if that changes anything. Thanks for the good ideas I had no idea what wold make them sound that bad. Yea the headunit has 17 X 4 RMS but I would have thought that would have been able to power it.
Last edited by JeepGuy12; 12-19-2010 at 12:43 AM.
#12
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DUH! the problem is that you are trying to power 4 speakers with outputs that can barely handle 2 spearkers. Think about it it. 34/4= 8.5 watts per speaker. That is still a generous rating for a weak sony deck. Most likely you are getting 5 watts rms to each speaker. No wonder they sound weak. Disconnect the rear hatch speakers and just have the middle speakers connected only. Tell me if it doesnt sound soooo much better. Your best bet is to go pick up a cheap 50x2 amp for your hatch speakers if you want to use em.
PS. All manufactures lie about their rating. Some overate some underrate. That is why some cost more. Get the birthsheet or GTFO.
PS. All manufactures lie about their rating. Some overate some underrate. That is why some cost more. Get the birthsheet or GTFO.
Last edited by RFxCamaro; 12-18-2010 at 02:51 PM.
#14
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No I only have the rear hatch speakers bypassed the middle and front speakers are not connected to the stock wiring anymore they are run off a new amp but at the moment are completely disconnected. The rest are stil stock wired into the amp connector (amp is no longer used). The rear hatch speakers are the only ones wired to the headunit. Or at least the only ones the headunit is powering because no sound is coming from the others. Ok what I did is I got into the stock wiring of the monsoon amp connector harness. I cut the wires that go from the speakers to the harness and the wires going from the amp to the headunit for the rear hatch speakers only left and right not the middle speakers that only played midbass. I did this so the headunit would power only the rear hatch speakers. But Im starting to think maybe I just need to cut the wires that go to the others so there is not interference with power or something. But Im going to try directly connecting them to the headunit so there is no length of wire between them. Im also pretty sure that 17w x 4 means 17 watts by each of 4 channels. Not 17 split 4 ways.
Last edited by JeepGuy12; 12-19-2010 at 12:45 AM.
#16
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It is bypassed for the rear hatch only I am running new wires to the middle and front speakers for the aftermarket amp.
E4 - Dark Blue - Right Rear Input (Positive) CONNECTS TO F14 - White - Right Rear Speaker (Positive)
E5 - Light Blue - Right Rear Input (Negative) CONNECTS TO F13 - Grey - Right Rear Speaker (Negative)
E6 - Yellow - Left Rear Input (Negative) CONNECTS TO F16 - Purple - Left Rear Speaker (Negative)
E7 - Brown - Left Rear Input (Positive) CONNECTS TO F15 - Red - Left Rear Speaker (Positive)
This is for a firebird but the numbers are the same on the connector.
E4 - Dark Blue - Right Rear Input (Positive) CONNECTS TO F14 - White - Right Rear Speaker (Positive)
E5 - Light Blue - Right Rear Input (Negative) CONNECTS TO F13 - Grey - Right Rear Speaker (Negative)
E6 - Yellow - Left Rear Input (Negative) CONNECTS TO F16 - Purple - Left Rear Speaker (Negative)
E7 - Brown - Left Rear Input (Positive) CONNECTS TO F15 - Red - Left Rear Speaker (Positive)
This is for a firebird but the numbers are the same on the connector.
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