ok well i picked this car up for real cheap so it doesnt really bother me all the issues however i do need to get it fixed and money is tight so i cant go doing anything huge unless found a cheap way to do it.

the car is a 1994 3.4l v6 5 speed

issues:

front tire rods are needing replaced
both ball joints need replaced
the 2 piece driveshaft is going so i want to put a 1 piece in
serpentine belt is too small for car(meaning it doesnt go around the ac compressor)

now for the part that is throwing me for a huge loop and i cant figure out

the motor runs but idles ruff then sometimes while driving the motor surges or acts like it loses power(if i drop it down a gear to get around someone it has a huge issue there and acts like it doesnt want to go at first), also i notice the oil gauge goes way way low almost to 0 after its been running for a while. ive changed the plugs, checked the wires and they seem fine. it does sound like it may be missing but i cant be sure and the car isnt throwing any trouble codes. ive ran seafoam through the top end thinking it would help, it cleared the idle up a little bit but it kinda went back to the same thing after a few days. had a shop look it over and the best they could tell me is that it could be a bad coil pack but i have to wait for a code to come up to be sure...gee so helpful.

any thoughts or ideas on any or all of this?

 

How did you check the wires? The reason I as is because the only real way to check a wire is a scope. It is also the best way to check the coils. If you plan on keeping the car and you have no idea how old the wires are replace them. Also how they look on the outside means nothing. It is the internal resistance that kills them. Most coil failure are due to people running wire too long. You should do a compression check just to be sure. I assume you have no codes?

The AC belt was rerouted because the compressor is bad. If your low on money leave it be until you have some funds. Cheapest you will get that fixed is $250 buck if you do the work.

You can never be sure about factory gages you should always verify with a hand held gage but if the car has high miles step up to a 10W 40. It may help a loose motor build some pressure.

Anytime you have a car and you not sure of the history just do the routine stuff first. Plugs, Wires, Fuel filters, PCV valve Clean the IAC motor/throttle plate and the EGR Valve and check it for vacuum leaks. 1/2 the time that will fix the issue.

 

ok well i have never gone into depth like that as a routine stuff. how do i do these routine cleanings, checks? btw the car has 128,xxx miles according to the odometer but the title says exempt so i have no idea what to think is right. and one last thing that is bothering me, looks like one of the sensors on top of the motor was disconnected, like cut wires and they put it back together but it wasnt the best job, do you think i should take it apart and solder them nicely? i can get pics of anything if needed, i just need help..im a mechanic in training so i have an idea on somethings and im willing to do the work myself just need pointed the right way

 

You should a search on youtube for each of the above. Resistance in a bad wire repair can cause a lot of problems. Just remember when soldering on a computer system you not use a electrical gun. You want to use a Butane soldering gun. If all you have is a eletrical one then disconnect the PCM.

 

was driving around today and realized its doing is its been "kicking" lately, like if you accelerate, it wants to lurch a few times as it speeds up. Idles rough too. floor it, and its really rough, will accelerate, but kicks quite hard in rapid succession.

 

ok so i started on some of the stuff you told me to do gorn.

so far i have the plugs and wires new and it seems a little better already. tomorrow im gonna put the fuel filter on but man i took a look and its gonna be tuff getting under this car to do it omg. any tricks for getting it high enough and yet safe enough to be under? i dont trust doing it with just a jack under it

also i got some cleaner to clean the pcv, egr, and iac...do you have any diagrams of their locations? i know the iac is on the throttle body but im not sure which it is because there is two plugs on there, im guessing its the one that connects to the flap? and where is the egr on this thing? im not sure where to even begin to look for it haha.

its ok to clean them with carb cleaner right?

 

the iac is the top sensor on the throttle body. the egr valve sits right behind the alt. its connected to the exhaust manifold and upper intake manifold..left side..

 

quick question, i pulled the egr and cleaned it up, i bought new gaskets for it and was wondering if it needs sealer on it or not. i read somewhere that you dont need to but idk if i should or not. also if i do need it, what type do i need?

edit: nevermind i have it all back together and is running. its running a little better yet again but i only got to take it around the block since i did it. i did notice that while driving if i pulled it out of gear and left it roll that it would idle at 500rpms and i think it used to be higher than that whenever i did that. is it normal for it to go that low when pulled out of gear while rolling at a high speed?

 

Your IAC motor may need to relearn home. Try a search on Google " 19-4 Camaro IAC learn" It will figure it out if you just drive it awhile.

 

oh ok i see what your saying. btw where is the pcv on this thing? and whats the best way to clean it? cause i heard that some people take it all the way off and that requires a new gasket then.