gauges
#11
Haha. The battery on the one thats lower was 12.2V yesterday before I drove it for about 10 to 15 mins. I was letting it run to see if it would charge. Before we put it on there it was 11.8v. So it gained that tiny bit from something. I'll get my husband to check it again today. So if everything is hooked up with the alt, what are we looking for now?
#12
The subject matter in your two threads are starting to overlap. Here's the answer to your question from that one:
With the engine running, check the output wire at the alternator (the fatter wire). The alternator should be putting out at least 14 volts, but generally may be a little higher, in the low 14's range. Then check power at the battery. Due to a little parasitic loss in the wiring, the battery should read in the 13's. If the alternator checks out, but the battery doesn't, you could have a bad cell in the battery or it's a wiring/bad connection issue.
With the engine running, check the output wire at the alternator (the fatter wire). The alternator should be putting out at least 14 volts, but generally may be a little higher, in the low 14's range. Then check power at the battery. Due to a little parasitic loss in the wiring, the battery should read in the 13's. If the alternator checks out, but the battery doesn't, you could have a bad cell in the battery or it's a wiring/bad connection issue.
#13
The subject matter in your two threads are starting to overlap. Here's the answer to your question from that one:
With the engine running, check the output wire at the alternator (the fatter wire). The alternator should be putting out at least 14 volts, but generally may be a little higher, in the low 14's range. Then check power at the battery. Due to a little parasitic loss in the wiring, the battery should read in the 13's. If the alternator checks out, but the battery doesn't, you could have a bad cell in the battery or it's a wiring/bad connection issue.
With the engine running, check the output wire at the alternator (the fatter wire). The alternator should be putting out at least 14 volts, but generally may be a little higher, in the low 14's range. Then check power at the battery. Due to a little parasitic loss in the wiring, the battery should read in the 13's. If the alternator checks out, but the battery doesn't, you could have a bad cell in the battery or it's a wiring/bad connection issue.
At any rate, I'm asking these questions assuming my husband doesn't know what he's doing (he's at work til 4). When you're testing the thick alt wire, are you touching the red part of wire or near the bolt on alt?
#14
Touch the positive probe wire of the test meter to the output wire attaching nut on the alternator. He does know to touch the neg wire of the test meter to ground?
#15
Doubt it.
By the way, since I had posted pics of our other cars oil pressure, when the car is driving, the needle is in the middle of the gauge.
By the way, since I had posted pics of our other cars oil pressure, when the car is driving, the needle is in the middle of the gauge.
#16
Hopefully this will end this subject. My battery was 12.1 before being cranked. After cranked it rose to 14.04 and alt was 14.12. After a trip and back the battery is now up to 12.86. I guess we can safely say the battery is charging but the gauge isn't right?
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