Good news fellas,

The car is alive! The mechanic at the shop I brought it to threw a cluster from a V8 'bird in there along with a different PCM. Apparently both of the old ones were fried. Since he did only what I asked and that was to get the car running again, he let me know there were some MILs on.



He said it was like someone either A. jumped the car with the cables criss-crossed, or B. car got hit by lightening. I guess I'll never know.

As far as the ABS inop, possibly a bad module? Air bags? I'd like to start testing these things so I can remedy the remaining issues and have the state inspect it and issue me a rebuilt title. Not a bad car all in all. Aside from the MILs that are on, the AC compressor doesn't engage either.

 

Also, since you all are the Camaro experts and not I, what could I possibly expect to get out of this vehicle when it comes time to sell?

Keep in mind it will have a rebuilt title, and be TMU, but I strongly estimate the true mileage to be around 80k, no more than 100k. The car is just very very clean. Hell, the struts on the hood and the hatch still work like new.

Again, it's the V6/5 speed and has absolutely no power options.

 

Have a new issue guys and hope someone could point me in the right direction.

I decided to drive the car to work one day because it was running so well. I had checked the oil that came with the car and on the dipstick it looked nice... golden fresh, and full.

So I drive to work and just as I'm about to pull into the parking lot, I let 'er rip. Plenty of power. After work I come out, get in the car and start it up. While talking to a co worker I hear a faint ticking noise so I shut it down and checked the oil. Hmm must be my ears.

Anyway I get out onto the road, AC and radio on full blast and as I'm coming to my exit 20 miles later, I turn everything down and downshift to hear this really loud, constant tick coming from the motor. Yikes! Doesn't overheat so I continued the 10 miles home, shifting under 2500 rpms.

I changed the oil, and what I saw was nasty: Brown syrup coming out of the motor, nothing like what the dipstick had represented. Once the syrup-I mean oil- was done draining, sludge started to seep it's way out of the drain hole.

So I went ahead and picked up more oil, a new AC/Delco filter and a quart of Rislone. Ran it for a while. Noticed that the noise had quited down a lot but after going for a drive it's right back to where it was. No loss in power, not overheating. Just a lot of noise.

Can anyone point me the right direction? Here's a video of the noise:

 

what is your oil pressure? what kind of oil did you use? what oil filter?

 

Craby,

As you can see at the top of this page, my oil pressure gauge is inop because I'm using a V8 cluster. Where could I hook up an external gauge?

Advance Auto Parts 10w30/ ACDelco PF47/ 1 qt. Rislone oil treatment (I wasn't going to opt for a more expensive dino or syn if a flush didn't help solve my problem)

Thanks for the quick reply.

 

well thats good oil and filter, additives will clean the engine, not such a good idea on a high miles one. may have to try a little heavier oil. chevy engines have a oil outlet in the block at the back of the intake and above the oil filter, usually theres a pressure sender in one of them. you can also install a t at the oil pressure switch/sender.

 

The thing that pisses me off the most is that the car was meticulously cared for, but due to the condition it obviously sat in a garage somewhere where the owner apparently didn't bother to change the oil. I don't know the true mileage but I am 100% confident it's well under 100k.

My dad suggested possibly the oil pump gone bad? I know the pump is integrated into the timing cover on these motors, correct? Could that be a possible culprit? I will try to get the oil pressure next.

 

Good news!!

Since my last post, I had decided to try a motor flush one last time. I ran a NAPA brand 5-min flush with the 10-mile old previous oil, then changed the oil and filter once again. Ran it for a good 10 minutes with no change in noise. Quickly losing hope, I went ahead and ordered an oil pressure test kit on eBay last week.

Due to work, I finally got around to testing the pressures today. I noticed where my oil pressure switch should be there is just a brass plug. I wonder why? (at least I think that's where it's supposed to be... right above the oil filter, correct?) So I plugged in the pressure tester, and turned the car on. The gauge was registering 0 on the dial. Let it run for 30 seconds, the oil-starved top end clicking away. I took the tester's hose off the block and it was bone dry as though oil hadn't even touched it. For the hell of it, I started the car with the tester unplugged, leaving the pressure switch hole exposed. After a few seconds, oil started puking out of the hole in spurts...



I turned the car off, realizing that oil was finally getting up to it. Plugged the tester back in, and turned the car back on. Still no reading on the gauge. Disappointed, I started hearing the clicking noise quieting down ever so slowly. Hmmm, it's never done this before. It stayed at about 50% of the previous volume for 20 seconds, and at that time I saw the gauge jump up! All of a sudden the noise diminished completely and the gauge rose to 60psi at idle...



I have no idea what the hell happened. Maybe leaving that pressure sender hole exposed let some of the blockage to be puked out in those 10 seconds? Whatever it is, I took it around the block after letting it idle for 5 minutes. Pulls hard in 1st and 2nd gear with no funny noises or hiccups.

I'm off to the parts store to do one last engine flush, pick up a nice synthetic oil and a new filter and hopefully be done with this oil pressure saga!

I appreciate all of the responses and will let you guys know if anything changes.

 

I think I know....

The high pressure bypass valve is located right behing the oil filter adaptor. This is there to prevent too high of oil pressure from blowing out seals and stuff. If this engine is stored for a while the valve can get "sticky" and stick in the open position, essentually starving the engine. You can get a new oil filter adaptor gasket in the timing cover set, I dont think it is available by itself. Remove the filter adaptor, clean gasket surfaces really good (its a PITA) and remove the spool valve, (long metal rod about 12-13mm diameter) and clean it really good. If my memory serves me there is a small spring in there too. Oil it a little before you reinstall it and carefully reinstall the filter adaptor.

Massey

P.S. your oil pressure sensor goes right above the oil filter. This engine is a Buick engine and there is no oil pressure port in the rear of the intake. Also yes your oil pump is driven off the crank in the timing cover.

 

A ton of electrical issues and crap up in the valve covers and intake area that did not get into the oil pan till after you drove the car for awhile? A low miles car was totaled for an unknown reason?

There is one thing that would explain everything. This car was underwater.

What it worth? if you are truthful about what you found it is a parts car.

I don't know about where you are but here in PA the inspection to get a reconstructed title is very detailed and EVERYTHING must work. Also you are required to show proof of the original damage and the inspector may want to see the proof of the steps taken to repair that damage like a frame machine report. Most guys I know keep a complete picture histroy of the repair. In the end it is totaly up to the inspector it is not that he has to prove the car is not safe. You have to prove the car is safe. The state of PA has been trying to do away with reconsturcted title. The only reason they have not is there are some shops that do a very nice job and generate good money doing it. The state is trying to figure out how to stop DIY people from putting unsafe cars back on the road without screwing the people that know what they are doing.