So I noticed my pinion seal was leaking last week. Friday morning I took it to a local repair shop to have it replaced. I know the guy used an impact to do it, but I'm thinking he over tightened the nut that holds the u-joint and drive shaft. Today I started getting a really bad noise from the rear end at low speeds. Kinda sounds like a bad bearing. Doesnt make the noise above 35- 40mph... Is it possible its just the nut being over tightened or has it messed up the pinion bearing? I'll be taking it back in the morning but I'm just looking for some more info!

 

There are a couple of ways it should have been done. One is to read the torque of the nut when removing, and torque it back on by the same amount. The other is to count the number of threads that are exposed beyond the nut, and put tick marks on the nut and pinion shaft so they line up when put back together, with the same amount of threads showing as before. Just impacting the nut back on as he did messed up your pinion depth. Unfortunately, now you don't know where it was before he started, and yes, that is very likely the case of your new noise. The guy should have known better.

 

Thanks Camaro69. I was kinda half watching the "mechanic" work n he did none of that. Just zipped the nut off drained the fluid replaced the seal and zipped it back on. Any suggest ion of how to correctly set the opinion depth now? And if I'm picturing this correctly the over tightened nut has pulled the pinion FORWARD right? Is it possible its rubbing against the housing or more likely the noise is the over stressed bearing?

 

To clarify the pinion nut torque, I'm referring to rotational torque, not the tightness of the nut itself. When removing and reinstalling the nut, you do NOT want to use an impact. Your "mechanic" may have already collapsed the crush sleeve more (too much) by doing that, and pulling the pinion gear too far forward. Have both wheels off the ground and tighten the nut by hand with a ratchet. Then put a beam type (not click) inch lbs. torque wrench on the nut and turn it clockwise while letting the wheels turn as well. Keep tightening the nut till you get the torque wrench to read 20 rotational inch lbs (not ft. lbs.), and then hope for the best down the road.

 

Thanks Camaro69. They dont want to fix it and I dont want to DIY a rear end right now... can I do this under the car on jack stands or should I find a way to lift it higher? By having the rear end spinning do u mean have someone spinning the wheels for me as I tighten it? The noise only occurs in 1st gear. I wish I could adjust it while it's in 1st...

 

You're better off doing it yourself, I wouldn't want that mechanic messing it up any more than he may already have. You can do it while the back is on jack stands, tires off the ground, transmission in neutral, and e-brake off. No, don't get any assistance turning the tires, the only turning you will be doing is at the pinion nut using a torque wrench.

 

Camaro69 I really appreciate all the help!! But if it comes down to it do ya got any tips on replacing the rear end? I have a friend willing to help me who's done it on a '00 LS1 Z28. I know I'll need one with rear discs and no traction control, but do the years matter? Any tips on checking a used one to make sure its good before I buy one? I know if I get a different gear ratio my speed and odometer will be incorrect but I'll worry about that later... could I use one from a 98- 02?

 

Could I use this?
F-body Camaro 10 bolt/springs

 

Any rear from 93-02 with disc brakes and without traction control will work.

 

Thanks MKCoconuts. You guys in this forum are extremely helpful. If I remember correctly the ones with the sensor rings on the ends of the axles themselves are the TCS ones? Could I get one and use my non tcs axles? How do I check the rear end to make sure its good before purchasing? Anything specific I should check/ do/ look for?