Does switching from 1 piece DS to a 2 piece require balancing new shaft with existing yokes at all? Obviously, if it is necessary, it would need to be done on the vehicle I *** u me.

 

Well, went in just fine today, with original ujoints from 2000, no less. I've never not replaced ALL u joints when I've had a driveshaft off a vehicle. Usually, my XJ's are pretty trashed though. I think this shaft was sitting for years in the boneyard's warehouse cuz they were in incredible shape, especially being almost a quarter century old. It was also almost a hundred degrees out and melting that nylon out seemed daunting. Now some new rubber, b4 winter if something major doesn't pop up. Sitting for 13 years just seems like sumpin' is bound to creep out .

 

Well good luck then.

 

no does not require balancing

 

Front joint developed a vibration and a clank so I yanked it cleaned it up purty-like and stuck a pair of Spicer 5-795X on it that I got fir $30 apiece. I noticed that the slip yoke that came with the SS (aluminum) shaft is a bit longer and beefier with that giant weight attached to it. My smaller yoke also has a thinner fork where the caps are mounted.
1) The xtra length is nominal and of no consequence but what is up with the giant counterweight on the SS yoke?
2) If you look, there's a very visible rubber seal around the inner part of the weight/disc. Torching the ujoints off with a propane torch took a bit longer to melt than acetylene would have and the whole knuckle got very toasty so I don't know what/if there will be a potential issue with that seal sooner or later.
3) I like the fact that my smaller, original, slip yoke that came off my two-piece is way lighter though. Is there an advantage to the beefier yoke?
4) Also, found some noise in a forum somewhere about a (2 opposing metal composition's) chemical reaction between the ujoint's steel cap reacting with the aluminum slip yokes fork?? Any validity to this actually causing an issue b4 I'm dead & gone?
5) Thoughts?
TIA

 

must be for harmonics did a search for aluminum driveshaft 2000 Camaro and best I could tell they had that on them as well.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?q...hacc=0&first=1

 

Holy cow I didn't think anyone even used bing lol. Actually, I feel like getting (quick) useful relevant hits on google has waned a lot lately, at least for the more obscure solutions/answers. Remember when there used to be like 10 search engines. I may just switch.

This was a very nice read on harmonics: Engine harmonics explained

 

RE: the dampener/counterweight/harmonic "balancer?" on the slip yoke, I just pounded it off and polished the yoke up nicely.

Got one spicer on shaft but the other one had to be RMA'd-cracked seal. And, those damn snap rings may need to be ground a bit-they're a tad too tight. I pounded on the fork with a rubber mallet to loosen it up and it helped slightly but not enough. I've seen so many posts on this it's plain malpractice.

Any other remedies besides a light snap ring grind?

 

gotta make sure the groves are clean and straight. any deformity or debris in the snap ring grove will mess things up. doesn't take much.

 

Yeah, no doubt even the "new" spicers have flaws for sure. The grooves were good but the one I sent back had a broken seal. I used a strong magnet to hold the snap ring flat and just pressed it lightly/slowly on the side of the grinding wheel til it shaved off about a third. That was enough to loosen it up just enough to pound the ends in the caps back a millimeter or so on each side. Still feels a tiny bit tight but not even close to what it was b4. It will loosen up a little anyway as I break 'em in.