clutch is soft with grinding noise
#1
clutch is soft with grinding noise
A few days ago my 94 camaro T56 6 speed LT1 broken down. When this happened i was pushing in my clutch and heard a loud grind near my clutch pedal. I shut down the car immediately and pushed it back to my house.
What i want to know is could this be caused by no fluid in tranmission? i just got a new clutch and flywheel about 700 miles ago, so i know that the new clutch would take up more fluid. I have also done more research and it also could be my master cylinder and or slave cylinder.
What does this problem sound like to you? no fluid or bad slave/master? I did a physical inspection of the slave and master and i cannot see anything physically wrong with it like leaking fluid/kink in line.
What i want to know is could this be caused by no fluid in tranmission? i just got a new clutch and flywheel about 700 miles ago, so i know that the new clutch would take up more fluid. I have also done more research and it also could be my master cylinder and or slave cylinder.
What does this problem sound like to you? no fluid or bad slave/master? I did a physical inspection of the slave and master and i cannot see anything physically wrong with it like leaking fluid/kink in line.
#4
You only mention getting a new clutch and flywheel. Were the only clutch parts replaced the disc? When doing a clutch job, replacing the flywheel is only necessary if it's chewed up, otherwise it can get dressed down. But what also gets replaced is the pressure plate, throwout (release) bearing, and the pilot bearing/bushing. If the plate and bearings were not replaced, you got a half ars job, and having problems down the line, however soon is not a surprise. Master and slave cylinders don't have to be changed at the same time, but are a good idea to do since they have as many miles as the clutch did unless previously replaced. Weak pedal could be the master or slave, could also be a worn pressure plate if the original. Grinding noise may be one of the bearings if they weren't replaced.
#5
You only mention getting a new clutch and flywheel. Were the only clutch parts replaced the disc? When doing a clutch job, replacing the flywheel is only necessary if it's chewed up, otherwise it can get dressed down. But what also gets replaced is the pressure plate, throwout (release) bearing, and the pilot bearing/bushing. If the plate and bearings were not replaced, you got a half ars job, and having problems down the line, however soon is not a surprise. Master and slave cylinders don't have to be changed at the same time, but are a good idea to do since they have as many miles as the clutch did unless previously replaced. Weak pedal could be the master or slave, could also be a worn pressure plate if the original. Grinding noise may be one of the bearings if they weren't replaced.
#6
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,352
For just a second forget about what happened before and describe what is happening now. Can you drive the car? What is not working? If and when does it grind?
Can put the non-running car in neutral, push the clutch in, Start it, then put it in reverse. How did it sound? If you do the entire process with the clutch pushed in there should be nothing in the transmission turning so there should be no grinding. If there is no grinding then your clutch or hydraulic system is not your issue.
What make pressure plate did you use? The internet is full of clutch review from China made pressure plates that did not last a month. Course that does not mean your hydraulic system is not the problem just more of "you can't be sure its not the clutch"
Can put the non-running car in neutral, push the clutch in, Start it, then put it in reverse. How did it sound? If you do the entire process with the clutch pushed in there should be nothing in the transmission turning so there should be no grinding. If there is no grinding then your clutch or hydraulic system is not your issue.
What make pressure plate did you use? The internet is full of clutch review from China made pressure plates that did not last a month. Course that does not mean your hydraulic system is not the problem just more of "you can't be sure its not the clutch"
Last edited by Gorn; 04-01-2016 at 12:46 PM.
#7
For just a second forget about what happened before and describe what is happening now. Can you drive the car? What is not working? If and when does it grind?
Can put the non-running car in neutral, push the clutch in, Start it, then put it in reverse. How did it sound? If you do the entire process with the clutch pushed in there should be nothing in the transmission turning so there should be no grinding. If there is no grinding then your clutch or hydraulic system is not your issue.
What make pressure plate did you use? The internet is full of clutch review from China made pressure plates that did not last a month. Course that does not mean your hydraulic system is not the problem just more of "you can't be sure its not the clutch"
Can put the non-running car in neutral, push the clutch in, Start it, then put it in reverse. How did it sound? If you do the entire process with the clutch pushed in there should be nothing in the transmission turning so there should be no grinding. If there is no grinding then your clutch or hydraulic system is not your issue.
What make pressure plate did you use? The internet is full of clutch review from China made pressure plates that did not last a month. Course that does not mean your hydraulic system is not the problem just more of "you can't be sure its not the clutch"
#8
Fork could be bent or broke and is hitting the pressure plate. That would cause the grinding and wouldn't allow you shift into gear without revving the engine and matching rpms. Not an easy thing to do. The fork is the one downfall to the '93-97 M6's. The cast fork gets weak over time and there is no aftermarket replacement and OE is impossible to find without spending $300+. That's worse case. The other possibility is the t-bar worked itself loose and isn't allowing the fork to work as it should.
Last edited by MKCoconuts; 04-01-2016 at 03:45 PM.
#9
Another possibility is if the release bearing was installed on the fork the wrong way (lip of bearing slipped between the fork and spring clips). It's easy enough to do, but a mechanic would have to be a doofus to do that.
#10
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,352
Not to scare you but if whoever install the clutch allowed the weight of the trans to hang on the input shaft you may of a bad trans front bearing which is a lot worse then it sounds.