Another Trans Bites the Dust!
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FYI less clutch packs are a way to save money. Many people think the V6 and V8's have the same transmission but they do not. GM always sized the clutch packs (the amount of clutches in a pack) based on the application. A tow package V8 truck may have the max clutches while a 4.3 S-10 pickup may have the min. There is NO way a tech can check that without a tear down. If the transmission was remanufacture and was found as the cheapest transmission available I would assume it was light on the clutch packs. I would also imagine if the transmission where rebuilt based on cost alone all the part that would be replaced (like your snap-ring ) would be imported from China this stuff that would NEVER pass as a GM part.
When a manufacture sells a part to GM they can not just say here is a part we say is good. We do not prove the process can make a good part we have to prove with statics that is almost impossible for the process to make a bad part. Sometimes you have to prove there is a 1 in 1,000,000 chance of making a bad part. Aftermarket companies police themselves. In many cases process capabilities are not even reviewed. basically they prove to themselves they can make a good part but never check to see if it can make a bad part.
If you read the new car warranty any modification, ANY that effects the way the engine works will void you warranty. I remember GM reps being worried about headers, not because of the added flow of the exhaust or HP gain but because of the placement of the O2 sensor. A check engine light with headers got a void warranty. Dealerships will look the other way for small mods because they do not want to hurt repeat business but if you are not a repeat customer then they can void or black ball your warranty. GM does not want to lose you as a customer and may over looks something. A warranty company that is installing it 2nd or 3rd transmission does not want you as a customer anymore
Just a FYI Warranty is also very clear that off road racing will void a warranty. Most people think that means mudding but a drag strip is "off road" so one trip down the strip can void your warranty. If you blow your trans at the race track and you want if covered under warranty there is a few things you need to remember. Don't have the car towed from the track, remove the large ID number off the windshield and don't leave your time slip on the front seat, yes I had one customer that did all three, Then tried to deny racing the car.
When a manufacture sells a part to GM they can not just say here is a part we say is good. We do not prove the process can make a good part we have to prove with statics that is almost impossible for the process to make a bad part. Sometimes you have to prove there is a 1 in 1,000,000 chance of making a bad part. Aftermarket companies police themselves. In many cases process capabilities are not even reviewed. basically they prove to themselves they can make a good part but never check to see if it can make a bad part.
If you read the new car warranty any modification, ANY that effects the way the engine works will void you warranty. I remember GM reps being worried about headers, not because of the added flow of the exhaust or HP gain but because of the placement of the O2 sensor. A check engine light with headers got a void warranty. Dealerships will look the other way for small mods because they do not want to hurt repeat business but if you are not a repeat customer then they can void or black ball your warranty. GM does not want to lose you as a customer and may over looks something. A warranty company that is installing it 2nd or 3rd transmission does not want you as a customer anymore
Just a FYI Warranty is also very clear that off road racing will void a warranty. Most people think that means mudding but a drag strip is "off road" so one trip down the strip can void your warranty. If you blow your trans at the race track and you want if covered under warranty there is a few things you need to remember. Don't have the car towed from the track, remove the large ID number off the windshield and don't leave your time slip on the front seat, yes I had one customer that did all three, Then tried to deny racing the car.
Last edited by Gorn; Dec 8, 2013 at 09:39 AM.
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From: IL
Thanks for the inputs guys, this has been one drawn-out, and annoying learning experience. Time for me to file my BBB complaint.
The Ext. Warranty company knew they source an incorrectly spec'd trans & tq converter, and that is inexcusable with what they are required to do under the policy.
The Ext. Warranty company knew they source an incorrectly spec'd trans & tq converter, and that is inexcusable with what they are required to do under the policy.
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6
From: Central Washington State
Trans cooler - Yes
My buddy and I flew to Phoenix to return with a street rodded '54 Chev pickup. It was August and I was worried about the engine & trans heating up on the way back with the stock radiator. The build had included a frame mounted, flow-through trans cooler and an electric fan powered engine oil cooler with a remote filter and the temps never went higher than 195 degrees. I highly recommend the trans cooler.
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My SS has not seen the strip and never been used in competition driving.
Just a FYI Warranty is also very clear that off road racing will void a warranty. Most people think that means mudding but a drag strip is "off road" so one trip down the strip can void your warranty. If you blow your trans at the race track and you want if covered under warranty there is a few things you need to remember. Don't have the car towed from the track, remove the large ID number off the windshield and don't leave your time slip on the front seat, yes I had one customer that did all three, Then tried to deny racing the car.
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Overdrive Member
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Where did you lookup these specs at? This is very helpful, so thanks!
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So I got a longer by an inch aluminum driveshaft made and installed today -- that vibration dampener in the picture below was removed -- I am told they don't do much good by the shop. However, this vibration issue is still present after new driveshaft, rebuilt & built trans, and new 3200 stall torque converter. I am befuddled and frustrated.
I can consistently get this whirring noise/vibration at 35-40 mph at about 1100-1300 rpm -- give it more gas and it goes away. Tap the break to disengage the lockup on the tq converter and it goes away as well. I had this issue with the previous tq converter as well, so I don't think that's the issue. Not sure what to try next.
Could it be some noise in the differential which is traveling the driveshaft? I have been trying to resolve this vibration/noise since 2008 -- had high hopes of nailing it with the driveshaft replacement today.
I can consistently get this whirring noise/vibration at 35-40 mph at about 1100-1300 rpm -- give it more gas and it goes away. Tap the break to disengage the lockup on the tq converter and it goes away as well. I had this issue with the previous tq converter as well, so I don't think that's the issue. Not sure what to try next.
Could it be some noise in the differential which is traveling the driveshaft? I have been trying to resolve this vibration/noise since 2008 -- had high hopes of nailing it with the driveshaft replacement today.
So I come to find out that the transmission replacement I had done in 2008 under the same extended warranty was an improper replacement. The trans guy thinks it was a V6 truck transmission, and had less clutches than expected, and the wrong torque converter for this car. The trans was installed by a Chevrolet shop, but the hardware was sourced by the extended warranty and shipped in. How the shop and multiple visits to other GM shops later could determine the root cause is beyond me -- so much for quality techs! 
I also took the car to Suburban Driveline, a shop that ONLY does driveline/rear end work Suburban Driveline - Villa Park, IL who confirmed this vibration issue I have been having:
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...ss-shop-62293/
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...tion-ss-54202/
was apparently due to a shorter trans tail section and therefore now the driveshaft is too short. The cheaper fix now is to put in a new custom length driveshaft.
Here's what it looks like today, obviously it is sticking out way too far!:
I also took the car to Suburban Driveline, a shop that ONLY does driveline/rear end work Suburban Driveline - Villa Park, IL who confirmed this vibration issue I have been having:
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...ss-shop-62293/
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...tion-ss-54202/
was apparently due to a shorter trans tail section and therefore now the driveshaft is too short. The cheaper fix now is to put in a new custom length driveshaft.
Here's what it looks like today, obviously it is sticking out way too far!:
Last edited by libertyforall1776; Apr 11, 2014 at 10:40 PM.
