1995 lt1 grinding? Issues
#1
1995 lt1 grinding? Issues
Hey guys new here, I just traded my jeep for this camaro, seems to be having maybe some kind of grinding issue with 1st and reverse. Idk if it's something I can fix or not. It will only grind when given gas while letting out the clutch. If I just take off without hitting the gas, nice and slow, it will be fine. The guy I got it from said the trans was just rebuilt 4000 miles ago. Any suggestions?
#2
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,354
Your saying a manual transmission grinds after it is in gear? That is a major issue. Looks like who rebuilt it screwed up or someone broke it since the rebuild. There is NO simple fix to this. The transmission needs to come out and be torn down to find out what is going on.
The only grinding that can be addresses without pulling the transmission is the grinding as you put the car into gear, That is the syncs grinding and can be cause by the clutch not fully disengaging. Once the syncs are locked (in gear) there is nothing that should ever grind. To me it kind of sounds like a counter shaft bearing is allowing the counter shaft to move in high torque situations. Due to gearing the counter shaft sees the highest torque in first gear and reverse. Do NOT let it grind. Every time it grinds it does serious damage to the gears. If the counter gear cannot be save that can be a grand right there. In most cases gears boxes (manual trans) that fail in this manner are not worth fixing.
As a general rule manual transmission are cheap to work on, that is until the gears get damaged. An old transmission and be “rebuilt” for cheap if it is just bearings, syncs and shift forks but once gears get damaged the price can skyrocket past the cost of an automatic rebuild. A single gear can cost $300 and in many cases the gears are mated so they must be bought in sets. The counter gear is the big one. I have seen counter gears cost $1200-$1300. With labor it is real easy to hit 3K if you have to pay someone for the repair. Most shops that are any good will not use used parts. Gears tend to have wear patterns and to install 2 gears that have different wear patterns is asking for whining from the transmission and the customer.
The only grinding that can be addresses without pulling the transmission is the grinding as you put the car into gear, That is the syncs grinding and can be cause by the clutch not fully disengaging. Once the syncs are locked (in gear) there is nothing that should ever grind. To me it kind of sounds like a counter shaft bearing is allowing the counter shaft to move in high torque situations. Due to gearing the counter shaft sees the highest torque in first gear and reverse. Do NOT let it grind. Every time it grinds it does serious damage to the gears. If the counter gear cannot be save that can be a grand right there. In most cases gears boxes (manual trans) that fail in this manner are not worth fixing.
As a general rule manual transmission are cheap to work on, that is until the gears get damaged. An old transmission and be “rebuilt” for cheap if it is just bearings, syncs and shift forks but once gears get damaged the price can skyrocket past the cost of an automatic rebuild. A single gear can cost $300 and in many cases the gears are mated so they must be bought in sets. The counter gear is the big one. I have seen counter gears cost $1200-$1300. With labor it is real easy to hit 3K if you have to pay someone for the repair. Most shops that are any good will not use used parts. Gears tend to have wear patterns and to install 2 gears that have different wear patterns is asking for whining from the transmission and the customer.
Last edited by Gorn; 03-10-2014 at 06:38 AM.
#3
Yeah when I put it in first and release the clutch it will grind, it will still go, just grind. You can even hear it from outside the vehicle. If I slowly release the clutch, it will not grind but I can't give it any gas without it grinding.
#9
give the guy you got the car from a call and see if he will help you out with some cash or whatever. worth a try. how good are you with a wrench and do you have time and access to a place to work on the car. manual transmissions are not that hard to work on. keep your eyes open and check crag list for any trans just in case there is someone close that really needs to get rid of a 6sp, again you never know. if you have to drive it and its not doing it in 2nd threw 6th then don't use 1st and reverse.