That's odd. I can't remember, but do you have the V6 or V8? When I bought the lower control arm bushings for mine (V8) there were no different bushings other than brand. However, if I were to buy a rack and pinion, that would make a difference.

 

did you look it up in the parts manual provided in my last post

 

Craby, Yes, I did, but it lists that bushing as part of the control arm, no separate part number for the bushing itself and the control arm has like 10 different part numbers depending on suspension option (FE2, 1LE, FE4, FE7, F41). Mk, mines the V8.

 

It's very possible,that the bushings will wear out in no time. A used a arm doesn't always like to accept the new bushings as well as the original. Thats probably why the dealer put in a whole new arm. If your going to do all the bushings, your much better off going with tubular A arms. Everything about them is better. It's also cheaper in the long run.

 

More often than not, the new bushings won't fit as snugly as the original arms, thus wearing out in a very short amount of time. You are much better off buying all new upper and lower arms and replacing them together. I have all BMR components. The arms already come with the new bushings in them and the ball joints are included, you just need to have them pressed in. But it will last longer, handle better and be the same cost as putting in that oem rubber by the time you add the labor to have someone press in the new bushings. Save yourself the headache,time, money and just go all new aftermarket. An old arm with a stretched hole isn't the way to go.

 

That is the only part I disagree with. New lower control arm bushings run $35 for each side, so $70 for the pair. Even though I have my own press, labor where I live to do something like that costs about $20. That's $90 to for two sides. Two new, tubular, lower control arms, run about $400 a pair.

Btw Jkeaton, the part number for the lower control arm bushings is K6490, Moog brand.

 

What about the uppers? If you need lowers, you most likely will need uppers too. Most, don't have a press so they have to pay the labor to install them. I've done this on so many cars, I can tell you mk, by the time you spend all that time getting out the old, then press in the new, its the same cost to just install better parts. Plus your getting new and better designed ball joints in those new arms. Moog oem Ball joints are like $150. Now with the bushings your already almost at the price of new arms. The handling is unmatched,compared to OEM bushings and A arms. Not to mention that lots of times, the new bushings can wear prematurely since the hole inh the a arm will not be as snug as when the holes in the arm were brand new. This is actually quite common. I did a set of arms on a bmw, and they were completely worn after 6 months. I warned him of the possibility of the premature wear. He wanted to go the budget route and ended up spending literally twice as much as he should've. We ended up just installing new arms. It even may be alittle more money, but totally worth it. Btw, I don't think anyone will install those bushings for $20. Maybe Charles Ingles would have done it, but only if he was about to lose his farm.

 

Prices would depend on location, but where I live they consider something like that a simple job, and I live in a small town so they don't charge much and it's still quality work.

I also managed to get all Moog branded parts, upper and lower control arm bushings, upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods and only spent around $300 before my discount.

I'm not saying new tubular a-arms aren't a good idea, it's just for most people they're more than needed for a DD.

 

and sometimes they do it for a couple crabs. lol. same around here, if its a shop you use regular they dont charge much for the small things.

 

If you brought me the arms off the car I'd only charge about 20$, but i have a press.