Inner tie rods were moving really loose so glad I got replacements.

Everything is done except for sway bar bushings. I won't know how much better it drives until I replace the abs module since I cross threaded a line when I put the master cylinder back on and it's spitting brake fluid.

 

did you try and clear the threads. sometimes you can get a sharp edge in and run it from inside to outside to reset the threads. if that makes sense. is the brake line ok? make sure its the abs thats messed up.

 

I tried clearing the threads but they're effed. The brake line itself running from the master cylinder to the abs block is fine but the screw in fitting may need to be replaced. Unless the aluminum block can be rethreaded it's fubar. I already wanted to do the delete prior to this happening so I think now may be the time to do it.

 

i dont know if you can get a thread cleaner in there or not. might be worth looking. not a tap but a thread cleaner. i think there square on the point not like a tap is tapered

 

I spoke with Steve from SJM about their delete kit today. The asr on the v6's reduces engine power by closing the throttle and managing engine spark to limit wheel spin. Does anybody know if it's the ecm or the abs module that controls this? I tried disconnecting all the fuses but it sets it into reduced power mode so I can't test, it sucks because its been raining and the street's perfect for it right now. Also, if asr is on the abs circuit could the electronic portion of the module be separated and relocated to keep asr operational. I can live without it but it is nice to have on wet roads sometimes and ice/snow on the very rare occassion I get stuck driving in it.

 

i dont mess with abs or traction control. ran outa brain cells,,, lol. they both use the speed sensors on the hubs and thats about all i know. maybe garydoug will pop in and let us know

 

I got my delete kit from SJM this week and will be putting it on this weekend. Correct me if I'm wrong but I should be able to measure the brake pressure at the rear caliper before removing the abs and adjust them to the same pressure after the delete is installe. That should get me at or close to the stock brake bias and I could just tweak it to my liking from there.

 

Both. If the ABS module (EBCM) detects uneven speed between one or both rear wheels referenced to the front wheels, the EBCM "asks" the PCM to retard timing and/or reduce throttle position (V6 only) depending on the conditions. If that fails and the speeds are still unequal, the EBCM acts alone in applying the rear wheel brakes. If one rear wheel is rotating faster than the other rear wheel, the EBCM will apply the brake to the wheel on the side not in agreement with the front wheels.

 

I got most of the abs delete done but the 2 stock front lines just keep slipping when I try to double flare. Ive tried both the Evertough set I rented from Oreilly and an old one that was lying around the house. I know single flaring is prone to cracking but would it hold up for one day to see if I can get the Firestone next to work to double flare them? Until next Saturday at the most to take it to my regular mechanic if they can't or won't.

 

A single flare will not work. It won't hold up to the pressure and will leak since the connection is set up for a double flare. Go the local parts store and buy new line (copper nickel is preferred. $$ but easy to bend). This is what you will need.

1 (one) 3/16 line, 3/8-24 thread, standard flare brass T

1 (one) 3/16 line, 3/8-24 to M10x1.0 thread brass adapter (this will thread into your brake hose at the caliper.

1 (one) 3/16 line, 3/8-24 to M11 (I don't remember the pitch) brass adapter (this will thread into your master cylinder

Depending on where you put the T will determine how much line you need. I can measure mine if you want.

Your other option is to stick a 3/16 compression fitting on the cut line and buy a short section with one end already flared and use the compression fitting for now. Not a long term solution, but can get by for years with.