The master cylinder to prop valve and master cylinder to line lock came pre made in the kit so they're fine. The stock rear brake line and the section of line going from the line lock to the T that the front brake lines go to are double flared properly. It's the 2 stock brake lines north of the braided part that I can't double flare because they keep slipping through the flaring tool even after being shimmed, tightened, and c clamped. I just need to drive it enough to adjust the prop valve and get it to the shop here next to work to see if I can get them to put a double flare on it.

 

Can you get a picture so I can exactly which one's you're talking about. I have an idea, but want to be sure before I say something.

 

I'm talking about the 2 stock braided lines that go into hard lines into the brass T. Those are the ones I can't get double flared. I'm just going to leave it parked until I can get it to the shop on Saturday and have them do it.

 

Image won't load for me. If it's what I'm thinking of, you're talking about the steel lines that have the rock cover on them. Looks like a tightly wound steel coil? That's just a protector to keep rocks from nicking the steel line and making it rust.

Like I said though, you can get a short piece from the local auto parts store, cut one end off, and put a compression fitting in until you can get someone to flare it.

 

This is above the protector up in the engine bay going to where the abs sits. The steel lines come up into braided lines then back into steel lines that go into the abs on a stock setup. I just cut off the factory flares to put the new fittings on that came with the kit only to be unable to get the first part of the double flare done due to the line slipping. The stock rear brake line, same design, steel/braided/steel that goes to the prop valve flared no problem. Just brakes quoted me 80 after I showed the tech a pic of my setup and told him exactly what I wanted done. I'm just going to drive one of the spare cars until I can take it over there on Saturday morning.

In the mean time I'm trying to figure out the best way to turn off the abs inop, brake, and service engine lights. I may try messing with the electronic part off the abs module to see if I can spoof the ebcm into thinking abs is still there.

 

Got off work early and took the car to the shop this afternoon. All the lines are done now. One had to be replaced because it just cracked when the mechanic tried to flare it. Prop valve needs a little more tweaking but the pedal already has a better feel.

 

Going to just remove abs inop and brake bulbs for now. I still have the service engine light on. I scanned for codes today and got p1120 tps a circuit, and p1220 tps b circuit. The light wasn't on prior to disconnecting the battery before I did my abs delete and I didn't touch anything relating to the tb. Also you'd think a potential issue with the tps would adversely effect drivability but it actually seems a bit more spr or that could just be after driving a 4 banger for the past few weeks.

 

do you have traction control

 

It has asr, at least up until abs went bye bye. I have an idea of where I may have effed up to trigger the service engine light. I forgot to reconnect the positive cable next to the fuse boxes until after I reconnected the battery . I'll try disconnecting the battery for a bit when I get home from work and see if that clears it.

 

ASR = Traction control. It limits wheel spin by closing the throttle and I do believe quite possibly by putting line pressure to the spinning wheel.

And I see what you're talking about. My '93 didn't have those braided lines. I do believe the '97 does which would make sense since it has ASR.