Sofie's Official Engine Rebuild Thread!
#241
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oops hit rtrn too soon
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2869&ppt=C0031
There is the price and what have you from my store.
Massey
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2869&ppt=C0031
There is the price and what have you from my store.
Massey
#242
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I played it safe and got it from Summit. I was getting confused whether ones for the LS would fit or not. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-STB002H/
That's the one I bought. I'm sure there are some cheaper, but once again, I played it safe because I wasn't sure. No one gives dimensions about clearance and stuff, so I got it through them. Plus I love Summit, I get stuff in like 2 days from ordering.
That's the one I bought. I'm sure there are some cheaper, but once again, I played it safe because I wasn't sure. No one gives dimensions about clearance and stuff, so I got it through them. Plus I love Summit, I get stuff in like 2 days from ordering.
#243
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oops hit rtrn too soon
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2869&ppt=C0031
There is the price and what have you from my store.
Massey
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2869&ppt=C0031
There is the price and what have you from my store.
Massey
#246
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See for yourself! Haha. I've been wanting to take pics, just didn't get around to it. So I went out and took a few quick. Case put it in for me at the beginning of last week and then tightened it down Wednesday when he put in the new starter. My car is tweaked like an inch total. He had it up on the lift and the bar shifted.
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And this is what that damn PS pump is doing to my bay, grrr.
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And this is what that damn PS pump is doing to my bay, grrr.
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#247
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That sucks about the leaky pump. You just spent all that time cleaning and painting the engine bay and now it is already looking like nothing was done.
Hopefully you will be able to replace it soon and stop polluting your otherwise pristine engine bay.
Hopefully you will be able to replace it soon and stop polluting your otherwise pristine engine bay.
#249
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hey massey, as for the oil tube, i needed to use a long, narrow funnel to reach it. but it did make a convienient no-fall funnel holder.
and as for the starter, it tested 620 amps at around 90 degrees. rated it should be 690 cca. i wasnt there, so idk if the guy testing it even did it right. but ive looked around and found exide has a 75 series battery with 730 cca. the last few times ive used those fancy new testers for a 525 cca batt ('10 corolla), it read 710 amps. if there is still issues, its either going to be a faulty starter (even though its new), or too much mechanical drag from the engine (unlikely)
and as for the starter, it tested 620 amps at around 90 degrees. rated it should be 690 cca. i wasnt there, so idk if the guy testing it even did it right. but ive looked around and found exide has a 75 series battery with 730 cca. the last few times ive used those fancy new testers for a 525 cca batt ('10 corolla), it read 710 amps. if there is still issues, its either going to be a faulty starter (even though its new), or too much mechanical drag from the engine (unlikely)
Last edited by microkid; 08-09-2010 at 07:50 PM.
#250
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That sounds about right for the battery. The CCA is the battery's min amp rating at 32º, there is usally a slight varience there as well. So a batt putting out 710 at 90º is about right.
Was the amp draw on the starter done in car or on the bench? In car it is a little high but not bad, I would be happier to see it in the 550-575 amp range. If that was on the bench free spinning then the starter is shot, free spinning should only be about 40-60 amps.
Too much mechanical drag would be more of an issue when the car is warm than when cold since the rings provide the most drag in the engine. The rings get larger and the bores get smaller as the engine heats up so you can see how that would be bad. The other main cause of mechanical drag would have been noticed when the engine was being assmebled and that is if the bearings are too large for the journals, but that would have bound the crank durring assembly, or the rod caps would not have wanted to go on all the way. I hope neither is the case since both mean removing the engine again to correct the issue.
Massey
Was the amp draw on the starter done in car or on the bench? In car it is a little high but not bad, I would be happier to see it in the 550-575 amp range. If that was on the bench free spinning then the starter is shot, free spinning should only be about 40-60 amps.
Too much mechanical drag would be more of an issue when the car is warm than when cold since the rings provide the most drag in the engine. The rings get larger and the bores get smaller as the engine heats up so you can see how that would be bad. The other main cause of mechanical drag would have been noticed when the engine was being assmebled and that is if the bearings are too large for the journals, but that would have bound the crank durring assembly, or the rod caps would not have wanted to go on all the way. I hope neither is the case since both mean removing the engine again to correct the issue.
Massey