Need input on what to do.

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  #11  
Old 02-08-2013 | 08:13 AM
Edwardgp's Avatar
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From: Washington State
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Hey there Donut, for one thing I would let the machine shop decide on what bore you will need to cleanup the cylinder walls. The less they take off now the longer you will be able to keep your motor. Leave enough meat on the cylinder walls if possible so you can rebuild again later if you want.
 
  #12  
Old 02-08-2013 | 12:42 PM
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Are you planning on doing most of the work yourself or having a shop do it? I agree with Gorn about swapping an LS1 in. You'll easily reach your power goals and have a street friendly setup.
 
  #13  
Old 02-12-2013 | 12:15 AM
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Ill try and get some pictures up for u guys im kinda embarrased of my car though, the paint is horrible and was on the top of my list to do until my 3.4 blew up. Anyways, as far as the distributor issue. I decided to keep the 3.4 k-member and weld up my own motor mounts. I Had to do it to the front of the motor on each side of the crank pulley. so when I put the motor in, i pulled off the carbeurator and dist. cap. i had to drop it in almost vertically where the pulleys where facing the roof. once i got it in (leveled), i put the carb and cap back on, hooked up the spark plug wires and slid the motor back until the dist. cap touched the firewall. From there, I centered the motor took my measurements and made the mounts for the driver side and used some brackets from the v6 to bolt the passenger side mount to the frame. all I have left to do (before the car can run) is weld a tab on the transmission mount, install the raidiator, throttle cable, driveshaft, trans shifter, check the fluids, and take it to the exhaust shop. Then to make it look better i still need to finish pulling the AC hoses and anything else thats still there from the v6. It looks like crap right now but its because ive been more focused on getting it running than making a yard ornament look good.
 
  #14  
Old 02-12-2013 | 12:34 AM
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As for building the motor, Ive been putting a lot more time for research and thought into it, and it seems like the best way to go (as far as money and for the sake of keeping it on the street) would just be to get a 383 kit then find some decent heads (thanks ellswortha) and put on it with a cam and intake. I was going to have the shop do the block for me and then have my previous boss build the internal of the motor for me he knows a lot about cars, motors, and has raced before. (and also that has a 69' camaro that will make u all drool.)

Gorn, for rpms id like to keep the cam range kinda low say.....2000-6500. Wanting to run 93 octane too. when u said the carb that i have is to big for a small block, were u refering to the edlebrock that i have or the holley 850 that i was thinking of putting on the motor once it's built?
 
  #15  
Old 02-12-2013 | 12:48 AM
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The 850 carb is too big for your needs. On a 350, a 650 cfm will work great. On a 383 stroker, go with a 750.
Those Summit heads in the previous link are going to be too wimpy for the 383. Heads with 195cc intake runners would be a nice pick, giving you both good flow and velocity.
You can go bigger, but it's likely to hurt performance. Bigger isn't always better.
 
  #16  
Old 02-12-2013 | 07:13 AM
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are you saying that you moved the engine forward within the bay?
 
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