This is her second in less than a year. First one was a 94 that blew a head gasket the first month we had it. I didn't feel like fixing it myself, sold it for $100 more than I bought it for with the blown head gasket. Those SN-95's are popular around here. Took a month to find this one, wrecked.

 

My wife's blew a gasket too, very common with those. This was before we were married and she still lived at home so her step dad fixed it. Talking about dodging the bullet, because now I would be on the hook to do it!

 

I used to drive an '02 V6 Mustang, and it was sooooooo slow. Perfect for someone new to cars (not that my Camaro is blazing or anything).

I have to disagree with the comment about interior space, though. Unless you're talking about the new Camaro and Mustang, I think the Camaro has more space inside. I can move to college for the semester in my Camaro: no way I could've done that in the Mustang.

 

Talking about the 94-98 clearly since that's the model in the image.

Mustang
interior volume (liters): 2,353
rear leg room (mm): 767
front headroom (mm): 970
rear headroom (mm): 909
front hip room (mm): 1,344
rear hip room (mm): 1,237
front leg room (mm): 1,080
front shoulder room (mm): 1,359
rear shoulder room (mm): 1,321

Camaro
interior volume (liters): 2,319
rear leg room (mm): 681
front headroom (mm): 945
front headroom (mm): 945
front hip room (mm): 1,341
rear hip room (mm): 1,128
front leg room (mm): 1,092
front shoulder room (mm): 1,458
rear shoulder room (mm): 1,417

There is not much difference, but clearly the Mustang of this model compared to the 95 etc camaro as more space(none the less i was talking driver wise not cargo wise..). Plus like i stated, no annoying humps. My passengers always remind me how annoying that hump is to them on long drives.

PS: sorry jk, did not mean to spam your thread, but on subject from here on out I promise

 

LOL...no worries....

 

Any update jk?

 

Have not had much time lately, plus the weather is not cooperating. Today I finally junked the crappy flowmaster muffler and installed a Magnaflow. Such a difference. The magnaflow is so much more mellow and not raspy and crackly like the flowmaster was (I am not a fan of flowmaster at all). I bought two new O2 sensors, fuel filter and a temp sender sensor (for the block). Going to be replacing all that this weekend, then sending my PCM for a tune.

 

OK, guys, replaced my O2's and got a few tips for the passenger side O2 sensor:
What a royal PIA the passenger side is....thought I would share these tips that finally worked just when I was about to say f-it and just be happy with one new O2 sensor (drivers side is a cake walk)....

First thing, get plenty of this. I soaked it for about 18 hours, spraying it down about every 2 hours. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!



Remove the starter. (Make SURE you disconnect the battery first!) You can leave it, but without it in the way there is a little more room to work with. It's two bolts (and the nuts for the wiring). Really easy. Mine would not come all the way out, there is not enough room between the transmission housing and the downpipe to completely remove it from the car, but I was able to move it out of the way enough by shoving it forward under the ac compressor (be careful not to tear/rip any wiring or anything)

Then, make sure you have an O2 sensor socket. On the passenger side, the O2 sensor bung is real close to the y-pipe flange and the socket will not seat all the way (which WILL lead to a stripped head on the sensor. With the amount of torque required to break the sucker loose, you need the socket fully seated). I was able to ground down the socket enough so that it finally fit over the head and also had a little room to rotate before it got to a thicker section again (not ground down). I spent @$14 for this one from autozone. It is a good thickness. I had read that thinner walled (i.e. cheaper, i.e. fitting without grinding) would actually spread open during the removal process and strip the head of the sensor).




The I used about 2 feet of extensions, a u-joint and a breaker bar....



and LOTS OF HEAT! I hit it with a propane torch for about 3 mins till it was glowing red, (disconnect the spark plug wire directly above the sensor, can't remember which number it is, but you will see it and you will melt it if you don't remove it first). Be careful putting the socket on it at this point and have one of these handy whenever using a torch:


Come down through the top of the engine, between the exhaust manifold and the inner fender. Use a breaker bar. Bam. It finally broke free.




After you turn it a 1/4 turn or so, you will have to reset the socket back to where the ground off parts are where they need to be otherwise the socket will stop turning once the thicker part rotates into the area of limited clearance. Kinda hard to describe , but once your doing it you will see what I mean. Oh, and use caution when grabbing the socket to realign it, it will be hot (dont ask me how I know_...While I had the thing jacked up, I went ahead and replaced the fuel filter and a sensor for the temperature gauge. Now I need to get the PCM tuned..hope this helps the next person wanting to replace their O2 sensors.

 

Nice tips. Wish I had these when I had to do mine since I got so frustrated with it I said F it and went inside and ordered headers and the Y-pipe. Soooo much easier to change now! Haha

 

oh yeah, and your arm will look like this when your done....no blood no foul, though...lol



It was so worth it though when that sucker finally broke free....anyone who has EVER struggled getting a fastener, sensor, spark plug, etc loose..knows what that feeling is like....no matter what you had to unbolt, cut, saw or hammer away to get at it, once your primary mission is accomplished, everything else is just a nuisance to reinstall, fix or reattach...oh, and hopefully you did not drink enough beer to forget what you had to disconnect, cut, ax or hammer off......lol