So I have successfully completed the swap to gen1 except for a starting issue... i cut away all of the wiring to the old v6 as far as engine controls go and when I turned the key on after installing my small block, none of the lights worked...i mean no headlights turn signals nothing... I grounded the yellow and black wire from the bcm and now all my lights and signals work...i also wired in my aftermarket gauges...now here's where the problem occurs, I go to start the car and the headlights go out as I'm in the process of trying to start it and I hear a clicking noise coming from the center dash... I pulled the radio out and there is a black box with two connectors going to it...as I turn the key to 'start ' it clicks and when I release the key back to the run position the clicking stops... is there another part of the vats system I need to bypass? I also do not have the neutral safety switch wired up to my aftermarket shifter, the plug is just laying next to my shifter...and it's worth mentioning that I do not hear the fuel pump come on so not only am I not getting voltage to the starter but also the fuel pump is not coming on when I turn the key on.. would i be better off getting a push button momentary switch to start the car and put the fuel pump relay on a toggle switch ??? any help would be greatly appreciated ..

 

there are two parts to vats, also i believe the fuel pump is one of the many things controled by the bcm. if its not getting told the vats is happy it will not turn on the fuel pump. 2000 also has the auto headlight control, i wonder if thats messing with your lights.

 

I think the headlight thing may be normal..i first thought it was the battery so I changed it out..does the same thing..it has new terminals so the connection isn't the issue either.... I'm positive the no crank no start has to do with the vats/bcm im just not sure how to get around it other than like I mentioned, putting the fuel pump relay on a toggle switch and install a momentary push button switch to start it... at this point it would be so much easier to do it this way since in stumped on how to get around it and I have a spare toggle switch and a momentary switch is like 20 bucks at oreillys...if anyone sees this and knows how to resolve this without adding additional switches feel free to chime in or come pay day this Thursday ill just do as Ive stated... thanks!

 

OK I am way lost. To get the first gen carbureted engine to run you need to take all original wiring wrap it up in a nice ball and throw it away. You are eliminating the electronics. You need a key on power wire and a direct wire from the ignition switch. That's it.... You want to run the power through you n-safety switch, cool.

Fuel pump? what are you hooking to a 45 PSI fuel pump?

 

I have a Holley bypass fuel pressure regulator that was designed to bring fuel pump pressure down to an adjustable 4 to 9 psi for carb engines... I bought ICT fittings from summit that adapt from the factory steel gas line to 6 an ..then from there I plumbed the 3/8 line into the inlet side of the regulator, the 5/16 line to the return port on the regulator and the outlet side of the regulator to the carb... I took the mechanical fuel pump off the engine and used a block off plate... I was just trying to retain the option of starting the car with the key but I guess I will just use the key to unlock the steering wheel and power my lights ,etc as it sits now... I've got a toggle switch and oil pressure switch wired up for the fuel pump relay so if the engine was to die it will kill the power to the fuel pump for safety reasons, and I have a push button to start the car... just waiting on all this rain to subside so I can finish it up...

 

 

I bought bmr's front tubular k member and their transmission crossmember with torque arm relocation bracket for my turbo 400... and speed engineering lt1 headers fit perfectly... no rubbing or hitting anywhere... I've put alot of thought and effort into this build I just assumed I could use the key to start the car but if I can't it's no big deal... this engine and trans was in my 1973 gremlin but due to not being able to find a hood, door handles etc I pulled it out and put it in my camaro (the v6 blew up)... the engine is a 383 stroker, four bolt main with forged internals.. competition ported trick flow 195 heads, 2.02 / 1.60 titanium valves, 64cc chambers with trick flows track max roller cam and springs kit.. cam is a .558 lift on both intake and exhaust with 232/246 duration on a 112 lsa...trick flow roller rockers, super vic Jr Intake that's been port matched to the heads and a Holley 750 double pumper with mech secondaries.. 11.5 to 1 compression... according to trick flow, with my cubic inch and the parts I've used it should be making over 700 hp... I know super chevy magazine built a 355 with the same heads( except theirs were as cast not ported) and the same cam, a 750 Carter and a dual plane and it made over 540 hp at the flywheel... I also know I raced a pullied and tuned 2013 Shelby gt 500 in the gremlin and gapped his behind baaaddddd ... and mind u i was using the stock amc 20 rear end with open diff and 3.08 gears. Haha.

 

i am wondering why you cant wire into the existing ignition switch. would have to cut the stock wires and redo but should be doable

 

Ok so what you want to do is to make a sending unit in that deletes the factory pump and install a low PSI pump outside of the tank, one designed to work with a carb. If you want to uses the stock pump you will need a regulator to drop the fuel pressure to 8 PSI max and it needs to return unused fuel to the tank. The way the factory fuel pump works is it is always pumping the same amount of fuel weather the engine needs it or not. If you slow the flow down the factory pump flow it will over heat. I don't mean in a year of 6 months I mean in hours.

I agree with craby you can use the original switch, a switch is a switch. It would be simpler to not use them, basically make a race car style harness. The pain in a 2000 is the BCM controls everything, power windows, locks, heater. I warn people if your are going to do this find a pre 1996 car so you would have to rewire the whole car.

 

She's alive..open headers and all.. exhaust next week then she ready for the road!