took a while to find Idle Air Control Valve Connector, 85-92 TPI, 88-92 TBI, 93 LT1

 

Thanks craby... I got one ordered along with a MAP sensor plug... how do I get the IAC valve out? It doesn't have the 2 torx screws that the pictures show... I don't want to break anything... I had an IAC issue on my 2002 Caddy and I cleaned the throttle body and IAC and it idled perfect and the off idle transition problem disappeared

 

easier to get the iac motor out if you take the tb off. it un screws.

 

in between working on the garage, I was able to do some work on the Camaro... I replaced the fuel filter and the car runs 85% better... there is still a "bog" from around 4,000 rpms till red line/shift where the car jerks a little bit... I'm wondering if its the optispark? I went ahead and tested the fuel pressure... pressure is as follows Engine off w/ key on: 41 PSI... Engine at idle: 40 PSI... when punched to WOT: jumps to 60 PSI then levels off at 50 PSI... be advised I did the WOT test on the road, with the guage taped to the windshield... everything seem OK fuel wise? Also, I tried locating the vacumn hose that goes from the EVAP purge solenoid on the passenger side of the intake to the fitting on the TB below the PCV, the fitting that goes into the TB has deteriorated... I made a temporary fix but I'm trying to locate the stock piece... also, the pre-bent tube that handles the pcv breather on the passenger side(valve cover to TB) is it available ftermarket? I have a temporary rubber hose but it looks tacky.. I tried auto zone, advance auto parts, and rock auto... thanks for any insight.

 

fuel pressure should not go over 42 by more than a couple pounds at any time. while running at idle it should be at about 37 lbs. at wot it should be at 42, what fuel pressure regulator are you using? check here to see if you can find the hose. http://www.rmsautoparts.com/

 

Thanks craby... the fuel pressure regulator is stock as far as I know... should i go ahead and replace it? If so, will the Rock Auto brands work or should i opt for an AC Delco or Delphi? Thanks!

 

check the prices compared to your local parts stores. easier to return a faulty fpr if its closer. i went through three before i got a good one. they would not hold pressure.

 

After fixing a few odds and ends... I've been thinking about where I would like my car to be... I want to build a streetable car that I can run on the weekends and drive to work once or twice a week... I want to run drag radials and be in a class such as Tremec True Street or similar when there's a big event at my local track(3-4 times a year) and run brackets in the mean time every couple weekends or so(5.50 or 6.50 index) its going to be a car in which I want to go out and have fun and maybe win and if I don't, still have fun... that way if i do break something, I just trailer it back home and fix it when i can and go out and have more fun when its fixed... I have decided to start running the car as is with bolt one and start saving more a new motor, tranny, and suspension... I plan on starting with a golens 396 forged short block, LE ported heads, Edelbrock intake, etc. But I haven't decided it I want to go with a Turbo kit or a Procharger... how is the fitment for turbos in these cars? Is it worth all the plumbing issues? I seen the PTK kit for around $6,000... Procharger said their P1 is good for 650rwhp and their D1 is good for about 800-900rwhp... they said the F1 would be a PItA for fitment... which would be the best route to go for my intended purpose? Either way I chose, I am going with the BMR front k-member for the additional room for mods and 30-40 pounds of weight reduction, then I'm going with tubular upper and lower control arms for additional weight reduction along with drag shocks... in the rear, I will have an upgraded rear end with BMR uppers and lowers and torque arm also with drag shocks... I plan on running the 275/60 or 315/60 drag radial but no bigger... thanks for any insight guys...