I know there's a billion threads about this, but none of them seem to reflect the exact problem I'm having with the same model year, which is apparently slightly different than the previous ones. I come to this forum on my knees as a last resort. I typically don't post in forums as I'm usually able to fix things with enough google and youtube. I've combed Google and several Camaro-oriented forums and read every thread I could find detailing this issue or anything like it and just can't get any results from things people have done or said. Here's what I've got so far:

My father gave me this 96 Camaro RS a couple weeks back. It has a few problems, but runs well and I want to fix it up.​​​​​​ I have very little history on the car and what it's been through, but here is what I do know:

• Power windows do not function (driver or passenger from either switch regardless of where the key is turned or if the vehicle is running)
• Radio does not function
• RAP seems to function (lights on the mirror stay on for a bit after it's been turned off/doors shut, power locks still function, alarm turns on, etc.). From what I understand, the 96's RAP is built into the BCM. I was very confused when I looked for the module according to shbox and found that only the Express Down Module is down there.
• BCM seems perfectly fine. I took it out and inspected it today and it looks brand new. All of the solder points look pretty solid, but I could be wrong. I can get pictures tomorrow.
• I took a multimeter to the fuse box. I am a complete scrub when it comes to electronics, but I figured if I was getting a 12v return on some of the fuses, I should at least get something at the window fuse (wired only with a brown wire in the back of the box). I get small returns in the mV range, but it seems like there's no power going to it off, acc, on, or running, or when the switch is being pressed in any operating mode. I get the same readings with the defog/seats fuse port but as I understand this car is not equipped with either.
• The 30amp breaker is brand new. I picked up 2 at the parts store and tried both.
• Multimeter returns no power between any of the leads at the switch. I get full expected voltage at the lock switch.
• Power mirrors function (mostly, no vertical movement on passenger side)
• Express Down Module seems in tact, no bad solder joints, not sure if that could even be an issue
• Brand new switches for driver side window and lock that I just got last week

To reiterate, I'm an electronics noob. I mostly have no idea what I'm looking for but have attempted to trace around using the wiring diagrams provided by shbox with a cheap multimeter. When the car was given to me, it was suggested that the windows may not function due to a grounding problem. I was going to investigate that today but ran out of daylight, and am also not sure what grounding point I need to test. If you have any advice for me, I thank you and ask that you are explicit.

I was also told that the engine isn't the stock but is a 3.8 from an '01 Firebird. I'm not sure what other modifications have been made but it's obvious that several pieces have been disassembled more than once. I believe the motors for the windows are either new or working, but aren't getting power.

 

first thing to come to mind is bcm

 

May not be able to see a cracked solder joint by eye. You need to verify where you have power and where you don't.


First thing, make sure you have the meter set on DC volts (V with a straight line and dots above the V). Check the meter for correct operation by testing for voltage at the battery posts. Now with the ignition on and engine not running, check for voltage at the IP Fuse Block locations shown in the first drawing of the attached pdf file. Red lead to the fuse block terminal and the black lead to a body ground. You should have 12 volts. No voltage would indicate a possible BCM or wiring problem before the fuse block. The clouded area of the second drawing shows the circuits and wiring involved. I would suggest disconnecting the connector from the BCM and checking for voltage between the terminals shown on the third drawing. If voltage is present, the BCM needs to be repair or replaced or the dark blue wire between the BCM and the IP Fuse Block is broken and needs repaired. The attached file also has troubleshooting charts that may help.