What would you do???
#11
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I have bbk shorties into 2.75" true duals, hi flows only, and a CAI for the performance side. C5 Z06 rims, WS6 style hood, SS spoiler, tints, and sound system for the looks side of it.
I definitely do want to get gears at least as one of the first priorities. Sadly enough, I have 2.73s right now and that ratio is too low for me. Not sure yet if I want to go 3.42s or 3.73s because I still want to be able to drive it on the street. And I already plan on getting the same trans as craby with a 3000 stall, but I need at $3,000 or so just for the trans. I think if I do the motor work first with the money, that gives me time to break in the new parts while I save up for the trans and rear.
Also, since I want some serious power, I have t-tops and I have heard that it's easy with t-tops with a lot of power to tweak the frame and break the tops. Is this true? and if so, what subframe connectors and roll cages would you guys recommend?
I definitely do want to get gears at least as one of the first priorities. Sadly enough, I have 2.73s right now and that ratio is too low for me. Not sure yet if I want to go 3.42s or 3.73s because I still want to be able to drive it on the street. And I already plan on getting the same trans as craby with a 3000 stall, but I need at $3,000 or so just for the trans. I think if I do the motor work first with the money, that gives me time to break in the new parts while I save up for the trans and rear.
Also, since I want some serious power, I have t-tops and I have heard that it's easy with t-tops with a lot of power to tweak the frame and break the tops. Is this true? and if so, what subframe connectors and roll cages would you guys recommend?
#13
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Yeah, I know. But the thing is if I can build the motor to sort of what I want for now, while I'm just cruising around breaking the motor in, I will be able to save up enough money for a better trans and 9" rear so when the motor is ready to be pushed, I will have the supporting power train for it.
#15
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if your digging into the motor your going to want to have the heads and intake done and a good cam to go with 1.6 rr's and some bigger injectors. thats going to suck up a little more than the 3k.
#16
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Yeah, I know. I already talked to Lloyd Elliot about getting heads and cam from him and having him p&p the intake. He gave me a quote for around $2,500. And I'm still shopping around for injectors to see what I can get when the time comes. Also, I don't have emissions in my county here in PA, so would it be worth it to get rid of the shorties and get some long tubes without EGR and whatever else?
#18
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OK, that's what I thought. Would it be smart to do the top end sooner when I have the money or wait until I want to do everything? I want to do a 383 build, forced induction, etc., like all out! But I'm impatient and want speed now lol should I wait for everything or just get some now and finish it later?
#19
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its your choise, i did most at the same time. lt headers are easier to install when the motors out but if doing it in stages then headers may be the best place for you to start. thats if there are no issues with the motor.
#20
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The motor has less than 20,000 miles on it. The only problem is I can hear is most likely a lifter tap, but you have to listen for it to hear it. But other than that, it runs like a champ. That's why I want to try to find another block, hopefully a 4 bolt from a vette, so I don't have to rip apart a good motor, and I could sell the motor or find another lt1 with a blown motor for real cheap and have two maros (: