v6 wont idle
#1
08-02-2012, 01:40 AM
v6 wont idle
start the car and it will rev up to 2000 smooth ...then it dies. start the car and just let it idle.....soon as it hits 1000 it dies. i can feather the throttle for a little while to keep it running but it finally sputters and dies. i dont have any check engine lights on.
could it be a major vacuum leak or bad gas, Need some ideas
could it be a major vacuum leak or bad gas, Need some ideas
#2
08-02-2012, 07:07 AM
I could make you a list of situations, but more details is needed. What's motor 3.4 or 3.8? What has already been done to the car? Tune up recently?
#3
08-02-2012, 06:21 PM
The year would be handy too!! If you have a 93-98 I would start looking at the Throttle Position Sensor, if the engine is a 3.8L then also look at the MAF. If the engine is a 99-02 3.8L then you have throttle by wire and I would again look at the MAF and the throttle control servo/resolver mechanism and circuitry.
Massey
Massey
#5
08-04-2012, 05:00 PM
With a vacuum hose off on my car it did something similar. You would hear the air sucking into the leak if it was that bad for sure.
#6
08-06-2012, 12:35 AM
The car is a 94 and has the 3.4 v6. Anyone have the electrical range values for the tps and maf for testing. What is the fuel pressure spec at idle. Car is stock. The window motors seem very weak as well. But what else is new
#7
08-08-2012, 04:18 PM
This should help.
You are assuming there is a fuel problem. Are you getting a good spark? Does the SES lite come on when you first turn on the ignition and then goes off indicating here is power going to the PCM?
Get a fuel injection pressure gauge, attach it to the test port on the fuel rack. Turn on ignition & try to start engine. If pump works OK, the gauge should show around 40-50 lb. Turn off key & pressure should hold, unless you have a leaky injector, bad regulator or bad pump. If you get the engine to run , the fuel pressure should drop to 30-40 lb indicating the pressure regulator is doing its job.
There is one 15 AMP fuse labeled I/P (ignition & pump) at position #5. It gets power from the ignition switch, feeds power to the pump relay, and the realy passes power to the pump. Make sure it is getting power from he ignition swithch.
When the ignition key is turned on, the computer will activate the pump relay for 2 seconds to prime the pump. If the computer does not see the proper reference pulses indicating that the engine is turning, it will shut down the pump to prevent flooding. This also checks that the pump relay works.
At the right rear of the engine compartment, there is a large wiring harness with a smaller harness branching out of it ( forward lamp harness). The smaller harness goes to a 10 wire connctor (C100) . Coming out of the harness on the firewall side of this connector, is a single wire floating in the breeze and ending in an insulated spade connector (usually grey). This wire is the test point for power to the pump. Use a voltmeter to check if there is power at this point when the ignition is first turned on.
You can also use this test point to feed power directly to the pump. Make up a jumper wire, using a piece of #14 wire and a 15 AMP fuse, make sure to fuse the jumper as you don't want to start a fire in case there is a short. Use the jumper to connect the test point directly to the + side of the battery. This will force the pump to run continuosly and allow you to check the pressure gauge and get a good pressure reading. Do not run the car with the jumper connected for more than a few minutes, because the computer has no control over the pump with this hook up, and will keep pumping fuel with the ignition off.
Pete
Get a fuel injection pressure gauge, attach it to the test port on the fuel rack. Turn on ignition & try to start engine. If pump works OK, the gauge should show around 40-50 lb. Turn off key & pressure should hold, unless you have a leaky injector, bad regulator or bad pump. If you get the engine to run , the fuel pressure should drop to 30-40 lb indicating the pressure regulator is doing its job.
There is one 15 AMP fuse labeled I/P (ignition & pump) at position #5. It gets power from the ignition switch, feeds power to the pump relay, and the realy passes power to the pump. Make sure it is getting power from he ignition swithch.
When the ignition key is turned on, the computer will activate the pump relay for 2 seconds to prime the pump. If the computer does not see the proper reference pulses indicating that the engine is turning, it will shut down the pump to prevent flooding. This also checks that the pump relay works.
At the right rear of the engine compartment, there is a large wiring harness with a smaller harness branching out of it ( forward lamp harness). The smaller harness goes to a 10 wire connctor (C100) . Coming out of the harness on the firewall side of this connector, is a single wire floating in the breeze and ending in an insulated spade connector (usually grey). This wire is the test point for power to the pump. Use a voltmeter to check if there is power at this point when the ignition is first turned on.
You can also use this test point to feed power directly to the pump. Make up a jumper wire, using a piece of #14 wire and a 15 AMP fuse, make sure to fuse the jumper as you don't want to start a fire in case there is a short. Use the jumper to connect the test point directly to the + side of the battery. This will force the pump to run continuosly and allow you to check the pressure gauge and get a good pressure reading. Do not run the car with the jumper connected for more than a few minutes, because the computer has no control over the pump with this hook up, and will keep pumping fuel with the ignition off.
Pete
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