found this

same weight, same gear ratios...

-5 pinion planetary gearsets
-hardened/shot peened turbine, stator and output shafts
-hardened sun gear
-hi-energy clutch packs
-extra clutch in 3-4 pack
-recalibrated valvebody
-heavy duty low/reverse roller clutch
-factory deep pan

 

Sweet, that sounds like just what I would want. What kind of damage would that be, just in parts you think for something like that?

 

i would think most or all of these would be done by your builder.

 

Well, my dad found a place near the FL/GA borderline.

GM 4L60E/4L65E | Xtreme Drivetrain

Not sure, just skimming their 'build list' for the stage 2 or 3 transmissions, if that's what I want to go with. Does that seem like everything that I would want to have replaced and upgraded with?
I'm seeing, "Hardened sun shell" on both their second and third offerings, but only seeing, "Extended Capacity Input Drum" on their third.

I don't think either of those are really what I'm looking for, no?
Might need to call/email to see what they mean, unless you guys know.

 

You are assuming the clutch packs are full. In most cases they are not. Adding clutches to clutch packs is a common upgrade. It is so common it is taught in transmission class for heavy towing application that may not have lasted long in service. If you look at a V6 trans it will have less clutches then its V8 brother. A V8 truck may have more clutches then a V8 Car. Also that factory uses the cheapest clutch material they can find. A higher end clutch materiel will not need to be as thick as as the original but still out perform it. Also the pressure plates are cheap steel, an H13 clutch plate could be half as thick and survive twice the heat of a factory one. This is why extending the clutch pack is reserved for only the most extreme torque situation.

Don't blame the car companies, it economics, if they can save 1 cent on the clutch and there is 16 clutches in every transmission and they sell 10 million cars per year... Think of it as a plus. If the car companies used the best clutches and pressure plates they step one to an upgrade would be the extended clutch pack which costs real money.

 

Alright... well.

Dad called up Alan Pope, he wants to estimate ~$3000 for a full rebuild to handle at least up to 500hp. No idea what he wants to do with it.

The other place (the 'extreme drivetrain place) wants to list $1800, but I don't see any of the stuff that you listed craby, other than the clutch pack material.

I'm more inclined to go with the dude who does NHRA builds than this 'xtreme' place, honestly.
I'll get my dad to call and try to get them to e-mail an estimated parts listing of components they would be replacing.

 

Alright. As far as suspension parts go, I think I'm going to avoid Stano based on some things I've read recently, that are only from a year or two ago.

Check out this thread on LS1 tech, post #5.

Horrible customer service, and obviously some problems there. After reading more on the subject, I'm going with BMR for all of my parts here.
With new lowering springs (1.25"), am I going to need the LCA relocation brackets, or am I safe enough running it stock for awhile? If I need it, I need it. Just not sure.

-edit-
I'm just going to order the whole 'lowering package' they have. Comes with a single adjustable PHB, springs, and relocation brackets.

-double edit-
I see that with the kit, the relocation brackets are bolt-on, not weld in. Is that something to worry about, before I order it? I won't be using my car for autocross or drag strip use, at all, it's only going to see the streets.

 

be ready for it to drop more over time. some brands settle quite a bit. depending on the car and the width and hight of your tires you may have to have adjustable panhard. if tires dont rub you can go short term, lol, might run a little sideways goin down the road. sam is getting on so im sure he is grumpier than the last time i talked to him. sent email last time when i asked where to get my koni shocks rebuilt. he is the best for our cars though so i would still recommend him.

 

The BMR kit comes with a single adjustable PHB.
Their springs are also 'rated' to drop 1.25" from stock, being new. I would assume they might settle down to as much as a 1.75" over time, which is still acceptable. I'm just not sure if the bolt-on relocation bracket is safe over the long term, unless I'm just being over zealous here. I just worry about wheel hop, and damaging the drivetrain which I'm spending all of this money to fix.

I would like to think he's pretty good as well, Sam, but the recent threads on LS1 tech regarding getting things through him seem pretty inconsistent, and there's been a few reports saying and showing that his springs are now pretty hit and miss with quality.
Everybody says the BMR springs feel the same as Strano, but there's no existing complaints of inconsistency per-order from them, which is why I'm leaning their way.

 

yah you wont get that kind of drop from his springs. they are made more for compitition than lowering. at least thats what i got from him. talked me into keeping the stock springs and going with koni adjustable bringing the front down 3/4 in and doing the hose mod in the back. that brought the back down more but once the 9 in went in fender hight was back up to the same as front.